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jugiruDirugiiffii^^ 

A r- 

THE  LIBRARIES 
COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY 


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|Ei'K^lr^rRTiirn^Ffu0rrmirriJ^rnJi3l 


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PRAGTIG/IL  JOINTS  TO 
]^HILDERS 


AND  THOSE  CONTEMPLATING  BUILDING. 


I'o urtli  edition.  (145,000) 


RELATING  TO 

Foundation,  Cellar,  Kitchen,  Chimney,  Cistern,  Brick-work,  Mortar, 
Heating,  Ventilation,  The  Roof,  and  many  items 
of  interest  to  Builders. 


Copyrighted  iSgo,  by  The  National  Sheet  Metal  Roofing  Co. 


vcrvvaX  SiWe-'t  91letaC  |||oo|vmaJ  (po. 


BOLE  MANUFACTURERS  OF 

Walter’s  Patent  Standard,  and  Cooper’s  Patent  Queen  Anne 
metallic  Shingles  and  Siding  Plates, 

510  to  520  East  Twentieth  Street,  New  York  City. 


Press  of  "W.  J.  Pell,  92  John  Street,  New  York. 
1800. 


1 1ST  ID  E X 


PACE 

Architect,  The 4 

Architects  and  Builders 16 

Brick-work 34 

Building. — Selecting  a Site 5 

Buildings  covered  with  Metal  Shingles 80 

Buildings. — Old  Materials ' 42 

Building. — Our  Specialties 95 

Buildings,  Sheet  Metal  Work  for 85 

Building  Paper 47 

Colors 10,  4S,  66 

Chimneys  17 

Cellar,  The 22 

Cistern,  The 46 

Conductor  or  Leader  Pipe,  Cooper's 56 

Construction,  Inside 83 

Design  for  Cottages 8,  12,  iS,  24,  31,  38,  51.  58 

Deadening  and  Fire-Proofing  Floors  60 

Elbows,  Cooper’s  Curved 76 

Floors,  Fire-Proofing ' 60 

Finials  and  How  to  Set  Them 73,  74 

Foundation,  The 6" 

Guarantee,  Our 51 

Gold  Medal  Award 7 

Heating 44 

Kitchen,  The - 29 

Metal  Shingles,  compared  with  Wood 26 

“ “ “ “ Slate  36 

“ “ “ “ Ordinary  Tin  Roofing 37 

“ Samples  of  30,  71 

“ Queen  Anne 40 

“ Directions  for  Laying 61 

“ How  Made 78 

Measure,  Surface  41 

Mortar?  What  is  Good . . 14 

Roof  Paint 21,  39 

“ Valleys  or  Gutters 13,  23,  85 

Roof,  The 28 

“ Comparative  Pitch  of 50 

Roofing,  Broad-Rib 72 

Ridge  toping  54 

Sheathing,  The  Best.....' 45 

Testimonials 87 

Ventilation  55,  73 

What  Our  Goods  Are  20,  35,  68,  70,  77 

Walter’s  Patent  and  What  It  Is  20 


Preface.^1* 


The  object  of  this  little  book  is  to  give  to  builders  a few  prac- 
tical hints  that  can  be  used  in  their  endeavors  to  erect  a home  that 
is  proposed  to  be  durable,  comfortable  and  healthy  They  are 
susceptible  of  being  improved  to  an  extent  that  will  meet  the  wishes 
of  the  most  extravagant  builder,  or  simplified  to  suit  purse  and 
requirements  of  a builder  with  moderate  means. 

We  have  left  out  generalities,  and  offer  the  reader  solid  facts 
that  are  valuable  to  every  one  engaged  in  the  ever  pleasant  task  of 
constructing  a home. 

THE  NATIONAL  SHEET  METAL  ROOFING  CO., 
510  to  520  East  Twentieth  St., 

• New  York  City. 


Practical  Hints  to  Builders 


THE  ARCHITECT. 


Shall  we  employ  one  ? Yes,  if  the  work  is  sufficiently  important 
to  justify  it,  and  it  is  a very  modest  house  indeed  that  is  not. 

As  the  professional  architect  is  generally  a graduate  of  one  of 
the  building  trades,  and  has  gravitated  to  that  position  because  of 
his  peculiar  fitness  for  it,  it  stands  to  reason,  some  will  think,  that 
from  among  the  many  builders  one  can  be  selected  who  is  capable 
of  taking  the  contract  and  presiding  as  architect.  To  such  persons 
we  would  say:  You  are  not  familiar  with  the  functions  of  an  archi- 
tect, when  considered  separate  from  the  builder.  The  architect  can 
save  you  money.  He  discovers  your  wants,  your  likes,  and  your 
dislikes;  he  reduces  them  to  a tangible  form;  he  draws  up  the 
specifications  so  minutely  that  every  variety  of  material  and  labor  is 
distinctly  set  forth  as  to  its  quality  and  kind. 

When  completed,  plans  and  specifications  are  presented  to  a 
builder  for  an  estimate;  he  knows  exactly  what  is  expected  of  him. 
There  is  no  chance  for  controversy  or  quibble;  all  has  been  settled 
by  the  owner  through  his  architect.  In  consequence,  if  several  con- 
tractors estimate  upon  the  building,  it  is  known  that  their  figures  are 
all  upon  the  same  basis. 

We  will  say  in  general  he  can  save  you  from  five  to  twenty  per 
cent,  in  cost;  will  give  you  better  construction  and  proportions,  and 
add  a value  to  your  house,  apart  from  its  first  cost,  that  if  it  does 
not  sell  for  more,  it  will  sell  more  readily  than  if  built  without 
his  service. 


Practical  hints  to  builders. 


5 


SELECTING  A BUILDING  SITE. 


There  are  but  few  persons  who  are  in  a position  to  locate  their 
proposed  home  just  where  they  would  most  desire  it.  But,  fortu- 
nately, most  any  building  site  is  capable  of  being  made  to  look  well, 
if  the  style  of  architecture  selected  harmonizes  with  the  surround- 
ings. 

It  is  of  the  first  importance  that  the  location  be  a healthy  one. 
Better  rent  all  your  life  than  ignore  that.  Avoid  the  neighborhood 
of  swamps  and  stagnant  water,  or  where  the  cellar,  (if  you  have  one) 
to  your  house,  from  the  nature  of  the  location,  will  be  damp.  Large 
bodies  of  water,  or  running  water  is  never  unhealthy;  but  on  the 
contrary,  it  is  in  many  ways  conducive  to  health.  Some  very  unin- 
viting, rugged  and  neglected  spots,  can,  with  but  little  expense  and 
an  appropriate  building,  be  made  exceedingly  beautiful. 

One  of  the  prettiest  school-houses  I ever  saw  was  built  on  a lot 
given  by  a farmer  for  a district  school.  It  did  look  as  if  the  piece 
of  ground  was  worthless  for  any  purpose;  it  was  rocky,  overgrown 
with  briers  and  bushes,  and  a tiny  stream  ran  across  the  lot,  jump- 
ing from  rock  to  rock,  alongside  of  which,  on  a level  spot  but  little 
larger  than  room  for  a building,  a house  with  steep  roof  and  turret 
was  built,  and  the  adjacent  hillside  made  a splendid  study  and  play- 
ground for  the  scholars.  When  completed  the  building  and  grounds 
was  a model  of  what  a country  school-house  should  be. 

While  an  elevation  is  at  all  times  desirable,  a hill  is  not.  The 
exposure  to  the  storms  in  winter,  and  the  tiresome  walk  in  summer, 
is  to  be  avoided.  A few  native  trees,  if  on  the  ground  to  furnish 
shade,  are  desirable.  The  water  supply,  too,  is  to  be  considered. 
Most  architects  say  a Southern  exposure  is  the  best,  but  this  depends 
on  your  location.  For  Southern  homes  the  East  is  preferable. 


6 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


FOUNDATION. 


Just  how  deep  to  excavate  to  start  the  foun- 
ion  of  a house  depends  on  the  climate  and 
. Always  dig  trenches  below  the  frost  line  in 
soil.  This  is  sufficient  if  the  subsoil  is  solid; 
he  subsoil  is  not  solid,  go  deep  enough  to 
;h  solid  earth. 

In  saying  this,  we  are  supposing  you 
are  not  building  in  a swamp,  where  it  is 
often  necessary  to  drive  piles  upon  which 
to  start  a solid  foundation.  Stone  is  gen- 
erally used  for  foundation  walls  where  it  is  convenient,  and  it  makes 
the  best.  Hard  pressed  brick,  laid  .with  mortar  composed  of  one 
part  of  hydraulic  lime  and  two  parts  sharp  sand,  makes  a foundation 
not  inferior  to  stone  for  all  practical  purposes.  By  using  the  above 
mortar,  dampness  will  not  ascend  from  the^ground  to  injure  the  floor 
joists. 

Mortar  made  from  common  lime  or  sand,  though  commonly 
used,  is  objectionable  for  foundations,  because  dampness  will  ascend 
even  above  the  floor  joists,  if  the  floor  is  not  several  feet  above  the 
ground.  It  is  often  the  case  that  hydraulic  lime  cannot  be  conven- 
iently had.  In  that  case  a layer  of  slate  or  coarse  paper,  well  satu- 
rated with  pitch,  laid  between  the  brick  seams  below  the  line  of  joists, 
will  answer  the  same  purpose,  and  is  less  expensive. 

See  that  the  space  between  the  joists  is  filled  with  brick,  flush 
with  the  under-side  of  floor  boards.  This  prevents  Mr.  Rat,  or 
other  members  of  his  interesting  family,  from  sitting  in  these  little 
corners  and  gnawing  into  the  room  above,  or  climbing  between  the 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


1 


siding  to  the  upper  floors.  If  this  little  matter  is  attended  to  right, 
neither  rats  or  mice  can  enter  the  house,  except  through  the  doors. 
I o keep  them  from  burrowing  underneath  the  foundation  walls,  let 
the  thickness  of  one  brick  project  outward  at  the  bottom  of  the 
foundation.  On  burrowing  downward,  a rat  soon  reaches  this  shelf, 
and  following  it  around  till  he  arrives  at  the  place  he  started  from, 
becomes  disgusted,  or  is  supposed  to,  as  he  is  not  seen  about  the 
house  again.  It  is  always  better  to  have  the  foundation  broader  at 
the  bottom  than  the  thickness  of  wall  intended  to  be  used.  This  is 
necessary  in  all  brick  houses,  unless  on  a rock  bottom. 

See  that  the  space  under  the  ground  floor  is  left  clear  of  rubbish 
before  the  floor  is  laid,  and  grating  built  in  the  wall  for  ventilation. 
1 his  opening  can  be  closed  in  winter  to  secure  additional  warmth. 
I he  cellar  is  closely  related  to  the  foundation;  we  give  some  hints 
on  its  construction  on  page  22. 


Fac-simile  of  Gold  Medal  awarded  to  Walter’s  Patent  Metallic  Shin- 
gles. These  shingles  have  received  twenty-eight  other  awards  for  merit  in  the 
United  States, 


8 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


TEN-ROOM,  TWO-STORY  HOUSE. 

Estimated  Cost,  with  Bath  and  Furnace,  $5,000  to  $6,000. 

Roof  to  be  covered  with  10x14  Galvanized  Tin  Shingles;  porches  with 
same;  tower  with  7x10,  same  quality;  use  attic  vents  on  main  roof,  and  No.  1 
Six-foot  Finial  on  apex  of  tower. 


The  plans  and  elevations  of  cottages  presented  in  this  book  have  each  be 
specially  prepared  for  some  individual  by  an  eminent  architect,  and  the  pro 
pons  and  details  can  be  relied  upon, 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


9 


Second  Floor. 

Pesign  I. — (Elevation,  page  8.) 


10 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


COLORS. — For  Exterior  and  Interior. 


As  your  house  nears  completion,  it  is  well  to  decide  upon  colors. 
That  is  a distinctive  feature  which  is  to  give  tone  and  beauty,  and 
make  your  house  in  some  respects  different  from  all  others.  The 
question  of  painting  is  often  a mere  matter  of  preserving  the  struc- 
ture, and  not  a question  of  beauty  or  harmony  of  colors,  or  what 
would  be  best  suited  to  the  surroundings;  it  is  too  often  the  case 
that  but  little  regard  is  paid  to  those  nice  perceptions  that  make  one 
man’s  work  maqy  times  more  valuable  than  another.  Strong  con- 
trasts of  color  should  be  avoided.  Light  tints  are  preferable  to 
strong  colors.  Think  of  a house  painted  black,  red,  yellow,  or  green. 

Let  the  surroundings  suggest  what  the  exterior  colors  should  be. 
A house  surrounded  by  trees  and  shrubbery  will  admit  of  white,  with 
white  tinted  trimmings,  such  as  cornices,  corner-boards,  window  and 
door  frames;  but  for  half  the  year  the  green  foliage  of  the  trees  is 
turned  to  brown,  which  but  partially  relieves  the  glaring  white.  This 
is  why  that  color  is  not  a favorite  for  exteriors.  As  a rule,  select  a 
light  color  for  the  body  of  the  house,  and  darken  that  for  the 
trimmings. 

For  interior  wood-work  select  light  wood  colors;  let  none  be 
darker  than  walnut.  Oak,  chestnut,  ash,  white  walnut,  maple  and 
cherry  make  a beautiful  finish  by  simply  oiling,  and  varnishing  if  a 
gloss  is  preferred.  Very  light  shades  of  ochre  make  beautiful  ceil- 
ings which  can  be  ornamented  with  suitable  designs,  using  darker 
but  delicate  shades  of  other  light  colors.  Here  is  where  the  taste 
and  skill  of  the  painter  comes  in,  and  unless  you  are  an  adept,  don’t 
fail  to  consult  an  experienced  decorator  for  your  inside  Avails. 

For  houses  of  moderate  cost  Ave  think  nothing  is  equal  to  solid 
colors  for  inside  Avails.  Let  the  colors  be  light  and  cheerful,  and 
th?  rooms  of  different  shades.  (See  page  48), 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


1 1 


If  you  are  interested  in  Hoofing,  send 
for  our  Price  List  and  Discount  Sheet, 
which  is  special  to  the  trade.  We  are 
pioneers  in  the  introduction  of  practical 
metal  shingles,  and  no  imitator  has  yet 
produced  their  equal.  Our  goods  are 
iurgely  used  throughout  the  United 
States  and  Canadas';  are  used  by  the 
Government  and  Railroads;  approved 
by  the  Fire  Insurance  Companies,  and 
many  leading  Architects  and  Builders. 
They  are  lighter  than  slate,  and  will  last 
longer  without  repairs;  and  the  low  rate 
of  insurance  on  our  rooting  will,  in  a 
short  time,  more  than  balance  the  dif- 
ference in  price  where  wood  shingles 
are  cheaper. 

. As  Been  by  the  cut,  our  shingles  are  the 
same  to-day  as  when  first  introduced. 
Remember,  no  cleats  or  springs  are  nec- 
essary in  using  our  shingles  The  lock 
is  simple  and  perfect,  with  corrugations 
across  the  lop,  and  bracing  corrugations 
across  the  exposed  end  of  the  shingles, 
which  stiffen  and  hold  the  shingles 
firmly  to  the  underlying  courses.  They 
are  easily  applied,  and  any  one  who  can 
lay  a wood  shingle  can  lay  these.  We 


furnish  them  in  four  sizes,  made  from  char- 
coal rooting  tin,  painted  both  sides  and  un- 
painted,  galvanized  tin  plate,  which  is  su- 
perior to  galvanized  iron,  cold  rolled  copper, 
and  steel  plates.  We  keep  on  hand  a full 
line  of  roofing  sundries. 

Onr  Shingles  received  the  highest  and  only 
award  for  metal  shingles  at  the  American 
Institute,  held  in  this  city,  October,  1886, 
and  New  Orleans  Exposition,  1885. 


WHOLESALE  AGENTS. 

MICHAUD  KNISELT  & SON,  184 
South  Jefferson  St,,  Chicago.,  Ills. 

W.  W.  MONTAGUE  & CO.,  San 
Francisco,  Cal.,  Facific  Coast. 

J.  J . WALTERS,  Denver,  Col. 

1‘ II III.IPS  & HUTTOMFF  MFG. 
Co.,  Nashville,  Tenn. 

CANADA  GALVANIZING  AND 
STEEL  HOOFING  CO., Montreal, 
Canada. 

M l Cll  WIMTH  BROS,  Buffalo, N.  T. 

JEROME  TWICHELL  CO., 

Kansas  City,  Mo. 

F.  H.  LAWSON  & CO.,  Cincinnati, 
Ohio. 


The  National  Sheet  Metal  Hoofing  Company, 

510,  512,  514,  516,  518,  520  East  2oth  St.,  New  York,  U.  S.  A. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


13 


ROOF  VALLEYS  OR  GUTTERS. 

It  is  generally  known  to  builders  and  roofers  that  the  greatest 
amount  of  wear  upon  all  kinds  of  roofs  is  in  the  valleys  or  gutters. 
Therefore,  that  part  of  the  roof,  whether  covered  with  slate,  tin  or 
wood  shingles,  should  be  of  the  best  material,  and  free  from  the 
annoying  possibility  of  cracking. 

This  trouble  is  always  caused  by  expansion  and  contraction  of 
the  metal.  The  usual  method  is  to  make  the  valley  of  the  desired 
length,  and,  after  shaping  to  the  roof-boards,  to  nail  each  side  firmly. 
The  result  is,  with  the  summer  heat,  a buckle  is  often  formed  at 
some  point  between  the  two  ends.  In  cold  weather  the  buckle  draws 
out,  and  in  course  of  time,  if  the  joints  in  the  middle  do  not  give 
way,  a leak  will  appear,  caused  by  the  metal  cracking.  This  will 
not  occur  with  our  roof  valleys,  because  we  amply  provide  for  the 
expansion  and  contraction  of  the  same.  We  particularly  call  the 
attention  of  dealers  in  building  material  to  our  Queen  Anne  Valley. 
It  is  salable,  durable  and  cheap,  always  ready  to  apply;  can  be  used 
by  any  workman  capable  of  laying  slate,  tin  or  wood  shingles.  (See 
page  23). 

THE  NATIONAL  SHEET  METAL  ROOFING  CO. 


Design  C. — ( Elevations , page  12.) 


14 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


WHAT  IS  GOOD  MORTAR? 


To  a casual  observer  mortar  is  mud,  but  to  a builder  who  under- 
stands the  chemistry  of  mortar  it  is  a compound  of  water,  lime  and 
sand,  and  when  properly  prepared  forms  an  indestructible  cement. 
Fresh  slacked  lime,  when  brought  in  contact  with  clean,  sharp  sand, 
adheres  strongly  to  the  surface  of  each  grain,  and  forms  the  silicate 
of  lime. 

At  the  same  time  the  drying  mortar  absorbs  carbonic  acid  from 
the  atmosphere,  forming  with  it  lime-stone,  which  in  time  becomes  a 
rock  in  solidity.  Now,  all  mortar  is  good  or  bad  in  proportion  to 
the  purity  of  the  ingredients  and  their  relative  affinity  for  each 
other.  The  adhesive  properties  of  mortar  are  nullified  by  loam  or 
clay  in  sand,  or  the  stale  condition  of  lime  used. 

Loam  mortar  adheres  freely  to  the  surface  of  walls  or  ceilings. 
So  does  mud  if  thrown  against  an  upright  surface;  but  water  dissolves 
it.  It  dries  quickly,  but  does  not  harden  with  age.  The  foundation 
of  many  frame,  and  the  entire  walls  of  many  brick  houses  are  built 
with  poor  mortar,  when  the  materials  for  good  could  be  had  at  the 
same  price. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS, 


15 

Water,  lime,  sand  and  hair  are  the  ingredients  for  plasterers’ 
fnortar  in  about  the  following  proportions:  One  bushel  unslacked 
lime  and  four  bushels  sharp  sand;  (to  this  add  twenty-four  pounds 
of  dry  hair  for  every  one  hundred  yards,  when  used  for  “scratch”  or 
first  coat,)  and  water  sufficient  to  make  it  of  proper  consistency.  After 
being  properly  mixed,  the  mortar  should  stand  from  three  to  ten  days 
before  using.  However,  the  time  it  should  stand  depends  upon  the 
susceptibility  of  the  lime  to  slack.  Some  lime  requires  a month, 
while  good  lime  slacks  immediately.  Age  improves  mortar,  provided 
it  is  kept  wet,  and  makes  it  work  easier  under  the  workman’s  trowel. 
As  it  is  the  keys  formed  by  pressing  the  mortar  against  the  lathing 
on  the  ceiling  that  holds  it  to  its  place,  there  should  be  a relative 
width  of  lath  and  key  space  to  insure  strength  sufficient  to  prevent 
its  falling.  Ignorance  of  this,  and  poor  mortar,  is  the  cause  of  falling 
ceilings.  Lath  one  inch  wide,  jg  inches  thick,  placed  inches  apart 
will  insure  good  strong  work. 

The  second  coat  needs  but  a very  small  quantity  of  hair.  Fifty 
bushels  sand,  and  twelve  and  one-half  bushels  unslacked  lime,  will 
make  mortar  enough  to  cover  one  hundred  square  yards.  If  mortar 
freezes  before  it  is  dry  it  loses  its  cementing  properties  and  becomes 
in  common  phase  rotten,  but  if  the  sand  used  is  clean,  and  it  re- 
mains frozen  without  thawing  until  it  is  dry,  it  is  not  injured.  The 
best  way  to  treat  a house  in  which  the  plastering  is  not  dry,  and  can- 
not be  kept  from  freezing  before  it  dries,  is  to  throw  the  house  open, 
and  let  it  freeze  for  eight  or  ten  days,  or  until  the  plastering  freezes  dry. 

Cisterns  should  be  plastered  inside  with  mortar  made  of  equal 
parts  of  hydraulic  lime  and  clean  sand.  For  brick  work  above  foun- 
dations use  one  part  unslacked  lime  to  four  parts  sand. 


“THE  INDEPENDENT,”  251  Broadway, 

New  York,  October  28th,  1889. 

Gentlemen: — The  shingles  from  your  respected  concern  used  on  my  new 
house  look  splendidly,  and  give  entire  satisfaction.  They  are  far  better  than 
any  metal  shingles  I have  previously  used  on  other  buildings,  which  I have 
had  torn  off  and  thrown  away  as  worthless.  At  times  we  were  flooded  by 
the  water  under  their  (want  of)  protection,  and  we  could  not  stop  the  leaks. 
Noah  in  the  ark  I am  sure  was,  fortunately,  not  troubled  with  leaks  such  as 
we  endured  for  years;  if  he  had  been  all  would  have  been  drowned.  Now, 
under  your  protection,  we  are  all  right  and  still  alive. 

Faithfully,  HENRY  C.  BOWEN. 

Chandler. 


16 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


TO  ARCHITECTS  AND  BUILDERS. 


There  is  no  detail  of  house  building  more  important  than  the 
roof.  Upon  it  depends  to  a great  degree  the  durability  and  preser- 
vation of  the  whole  structure.  The  number  of  good  houses  with  mot- 
tled ceilings  and  cracked  plastering,  to  be  seen  all  over  the  country, 
are  reminders  of  the  necessity  of  securing  the  best  material  and 
faultless  construction  for  this  important  part  of  your  dwelling. 

The  advantages  we  claim  for  our  Tin  Shingle,  over  the  ordinary 
mode  of  applying  sheet  metal  for  roofing  purposes,  consists  in  its 
Superior  Strength,  Freedom  from  Wrinkles  and  Cracking, 
(which  cannot  at  all  times  be  prevented  where  sheet  metal  is  put  on 
in  continuous  sheets);  and  in  being  the  Most  Ornamental  and 
Durable  of  all  sheet  metal  roof  coverings.  Now,  in  answer  to  this 
last  assertion  you  may  say,  How  can  this  be  ? Is  not  the  same 
quality  of  tin  as  durable  when  applied  in  one  form  as  another  ? 
We  answer,  By  no  means.  The  writer — and  we  presume  the  reader 
— has  seen  tin  roofs  worked,  and  walked  over  in  the  necessary  finish- 
ing up,  to  such  an  extent  as  to  seriously  damage  the  roof.  The  Tin 
Roofers’  mallets,  seamers,  tongs,  and  sliding  over  the  roof,  do  more 
real  damage  to  the  surface  of  tin  plate  than  several  years’  wear.  We 
entirely  overcome  this  difficulty,  as  no  part  of  the  exposed  surface  of 
our  Tin  Shingles  are  struck  with  a mallet  or  hammer  in  applying 
them.  Again,  where  metal  plates  are  put  together  in  continuous 
sheets,  moisture,  which  condenses  underneath  for  want  of  ventilation, 
settles  in  the  cross-seams  and  causes  decay,  and  the  ordinary  metal 
roof  when  removed  invariably  shows  this  to  be  the  case,  while  the 
other  part  of  the  plate  shows  no  perceptible  wear.  Our  form  of 
metal  roofing  has  no  cross-seams,  and  has  sufficient  ventilation  to 
prevent  the  condensation  of  moisture  underneath,  making  it  by  many 
years  the  most  durable  form  of  metal  roofing  ever  offered  to  the 
American  people. 

Our  object  is  to  furnish  the  building  public  with  a better  form 
of  roofing  material,  attractive  in  appearance,  without  the  objections 
of  the  heavy  slate,  the  clumsy  shingle,  or  the  plain  ribbed  metal  roof; 
and  at  a price  that  claims  the  attention  of  Architects  and  Builders  of 
the  whole  country. 

THE  NATIONAL  SHEET  METAL  ROOFING  CO., 

510  to  520  East  Twentieth  St., 

New  York  City. 


PRACTICAL  hints  To  builders. 


11 


CHIMNEYS. 


We  will  not  moralize  on  the  evils  of 
smoky  chimneys,  but  just  tell  you  in  plain 
language  how  to  construct  them  so  they  will 
not  smoke.  Make  the  throat  of  the  fire- 
place not  more  than  half  the  size  of  the  flue; 
carefully  smooth  the  inside  of  the  flue,  and 
have  it  of  the  same  area  all  the  way  to  near 
the  top  of  the  chimney,  when  it  should  be 
gradually  tapered  inward  to  about  half  the 
area  of  the  flue.  At  the  extreme  top,  the 
cap  stone  should  slant  from  the  opening  in  all  directions  downward 
at  an  angle  of  about  twenty  degrees.  This  will  insure  a good 
draught  and  prevent  the  smoke  blowing  downward.  No  two  fire- 
places should  enter  the  same  flue;  neither  should  a stove-pipe  enter 
a flue  unless  the  fire-place  is  closed.  Each  stove  and  fire-place 
should  have  its  own  flue.  The  size  necessary  for  a flue  depends  on 
the  fuel  to  be  used. 

Soft  or  Bituminous  coal  requires  a flue  nearly  double  the  size  of 
one  where  Anthracite  is  to  be  used;  an  open  fire-place  for  wood, 
larger  flues  than  either.  For  instance,  an  8x8  inch  flue  answers  for 
Anthracite,  because  it  makes  but  little  soot,  while  if  Bituminous  coal 
is  used,  8x12  is  none  too  large. 

You  will  find  in  houses  all  over  the  country  flues  smaller  than 
the  above,  and  a corresponding  number  of  smoky  chimneys,  which  it 
is  impossible  to  remedy  without  re-building  from  the  bottom  up. 

The  carelessness  displayed  in  chimney  construction  is  astonish- 
ing. As  the  work  is  hid  from  view  on  completion,  be  watchful  during 
the  process  of  construction  from  the  ground  up.  All  chimneys 
should,  if  possible,  extend  above  the  apex  or  comb  of  roof,  and 
should  be  built  of  good  hard  burnt  brick,  and  no  woodwork  should 
be  allowed  to  enter  within  five  inches  of  inside  of  flue,  and  not 
within  twelve  inches  anywhere  near  the  fire-place. 


IS 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


EIGHT-ROOM,  TWO-STORY  HOUSE. 

Estimated  Cost,  with  Bath  and  Furnace,  $3,500  to  $4,000. 

Roof  covered  with  10x14  No.  1 Standard  Tin  Shingles;  gables  with  Queen 
Anne;  second  story,  sides,  with  7x10  Standard  Tin  Shingles;  and  porches  with 
Broad  Rib  Tin  Roofing;  use  No.  2 Five-foot  Finial  on  tower. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


19 


Design  H. — {Elevation,  page  18.) 


A retired  plumber  thus  gives  a point  for  the  gratuitous  relief  of  house- 
holders: “Just  before  retiring  at  night  pour  into  the  clogged  pipe  enough  liquid 
soda  lye  to  fill  the  ‘ trap  ’ or  bent  part  of  the  pipe.  Be  sure  that  no  water  runs 
in  it  until  the  next  morning.  During  the  night  the  lye  will  convert  all  the  offal 
into  soft  soap,  and  the  first  current  of  water  in  the  morning  will  wash  it  away 
and  clear  the  pipe  clean  as  new.” 


20 


PRACTICAL  HINIS  TO  BUILDERS. 


THE  WALTER’S  PATENT,  AND  WHAT  IT  IS. 


Previous  to  the  granting  of  a patent  to  John  Walter,  in  1882,  there 
were  no  tin  shingles  manufactured  for  the  trade  in  the  United  States, 
with  the  exception  of  those  which  covered  more  than  two-thirds  of 
their  surface  to  get  one-third  exposed  to  the  weather;  the  same  is 
commonly  done  with  wood  shingles.  This  made  them  too  expensive 
for  general  use.  The  Walter’s  patent  made  it  practical  to  expose  five- 
sixths  of  the  surface  and  only  conceal  one-sixth  of  the  shingle.  This 
great  saving  at  once  reduced  the  cost  of  metal  shingles  over  one-half, 
and  enabled  the  National  Sheet  Metal  Roofing  Co.,  which  controls 
this  patent,  to  put  on  the  market  the  best  metal  roofing  in  the  world, 
at  prices  that  compete  with  ordinary  wood  shingles.  (See  “Compara- 
tive Cbst,”  pages  26  and  27.) 

How  this  was  done  is  best  expressed  in  the  claim  granted  the 
patentee,  copied  from  the  United  States  Official  Gazette: 

“A  metal  roofing  plate  having  a gutter  formed  by  corrugations  at  one  side, 
and  a perforated  flange  at  the  side  of  the  gutter,  whereby  it  shall  be 
nailed  to  the  roof  of  a house;  a broad  corrugation  at  the  other  side 
adapted  to  form  a seam  with  the  adjoining  edge  of  a corresponding 
plate,  substantially  as  shown  and  described.” 


The  advantage  of  this  lock  is  that  it  makes  a water-tight  seam 
without  soldering  or  hammering  down.  The  plates  are  joined  as 
easy  as  crossing  two  sticks,  with  ample  provision  for  expansion  and 
contraction.  This  lock  is  the  perfection  of  simplicity;  there  is  no 
exposed  seam  where  water  is  liable  to  lodge  and  cause  rust;  no  cleats 
are  used,  and  no -tin  springs  are  necessary  to  hold  the  side  edges  of 
connecting  plates  to  prevent  water  seeping  through. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


21 


PAINTING  SHEET-METAL  ROOFS. 


The  subject  of  painting  sheet-metal  roofs  is  one  of  great  importance,  says 
the  Builder , Decorator  and  Wood-  Worker,  not  only  on  account  of  the  protection 
afforded,  but  because  the  material,  when  properly  colored,  can  be  made  pleas- 
ant to  the  eye  when  placed  in  exposed  positions.  While  many  kinds  of  paint 
have  been  discovered  and  patented,  composed  of  a great  variety  of  materials,  it 
is  a question  if  there  is  a substance  used  that  is  an  effective  substitute  for  lin- 
seed oil,  regarding  the  effectiveness  of  which  an  authority  on  the  subject  says: 
“ By  consulting  experienced  and  unbiased  painters  you  will  learn  the  fact  that 
there  is  no  vehicle  pigments  at  all  approaching  linseed  oil  in  effectiveness  and 
durability,  especially  fcr  exposure  to  the  weather.  A good  paint  must  be  both 
hard  and  elastic.  It  requires  hardness  to  prevent  abrasion  and  wear,  and  elas- 
ticity to  prevent  cracking  from  expansion  and  contraction.  Nothing  but  linseed 
oil  will  give  these  qualities,  for,  strange  as  it  may  seem  to  many  in  these  days  of 
novelties,  the  pigments  really  add  but  very  little  to  the  effectiveness  of  paints. 
Mark,  we  say  the  best  of  pigments,  for  many  pigments  are  the  reverse  of  pro- 
tective, and  are  really  destructive  to  both  the  vehicles  and  the  material  which 
they  are  supposed  to  protect.  For  example,  coal  tar  and  all  its  products, 
whether  called  dead  oil,  asphalt,  rubber,  etc.,  are  of  the  class  just  described,  and 
their  use  at  any  price,  especially  for  covering  sheet-metals,  is  a wanton  waste 
of  money.  Extended  experiments  have  demonstrated  that  there  is  no  better 
pigment  for  metal  than  a good  iron  ore  ground  to  an  impalpable  powder.  To 
be  most  thoroughly  effective  the  pigment  must  be  intimately  incorporated  with 
the  vehicle,  which  can  best  be  done  only  by  grinding  them  together  in  a stone 
mill  by  steam  power.”'  It  is  of  the  greatest  importance  that  sheet-metal  roofs, 
especially  those  made  of  iron,  should  be  protected  from  the  action  of  the  ele- 
ments, as  when  so  protected  there  is  hardly  any  limit  to  the  time  they  will  last. 
In  order  that  the  paint  should  be  effective,  it  should  be  applied  before  the  iron 
has  had  an  opportunity  to  rust,  and  the  first  coat  should  be  of  the  best  quality 
and  applied  in  the  best  manner;  or  if  it  is  defective  it  is  plain  that  it  will  not 
only  require  repainting  far  sooner  than  it  should  but  no  matter  how  good  the 
subsequent  coatings  of  paint  are,  they  cannot  be  effective  if  founded  on  an  orig- 
inal coating  which  has  commenced  to  crack  or  peel,- as  it  certainly  will  if  not 
prepared  with  the  best  methods  and  materials.  Another  important  point  to  be 
observed  in  the  painting  of  sheet-metal  is  that  the  paint  should  not  be  too  thick, 
as  it  is  the  linseed  oil  that  is  to  be  depended  on  to  furnish  protection,  and  as 
the  action  of  the  air  on  the  surface  of  the  exposed  oil  gives  it  a particularly  hard 
surface,  two  thin  coats  of  paint  are  much  more  durable  than  one  thick  one. 

Remember,  it  is  the  rust-preventillg'  qualities  of  linseed  oil,  combined 
with  the  oxide  ol  iron,  that  makes  steel  or  iron  sheets  resist  the  corrosive  ac- 
tion of  oxygen,  which  is  ever  present  in  the  atmosphere.  (See  page  101.) 


22 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


THE  CELLAR. 


The  cellar  under  a dwelling  house  has  many  advocates.  It  is  a 
convenient,  cool  place,  and  nineteen  times  out  of  twenty  is  a damp, 
dark,  musty,  foul-smelling  place.  It  cannot  well  be  otherwise  and 
be  a cellar.  It  is  a store-room  for  all  sorts  of  vegetables;  odds  and 
ends  of  most  everything  are  laid  away  in  that  dark  retreat.  It  is  the 
favorite  resort  of  spiders,  toads  and  other  creeping  things;  it  is  the 
unrelenting  enemy  (?)  of  the  family  physician,  the  breeding-place  ol 
malaria,  which  unceasingly  sends  its  poisonous  vapors  into  every  part 
of  the  dwelling  above  it.  It  would  be  suicide  for  one  to  make  it 
their  sleeping  room. 

But  if  you  insist  upon  having  a cellar  under  your  house,  and 
will  not  put  it  under  the  corn-crib  or  carriage-house,  see  that  it  is 
properly  constructed.  This  is  more  important  than  most  of  the 
other  parts  of  the  house,  for  upon  it  in  a great  measure  depends  the 
health  of  your  entire  family. 

The  floor  of  the  cellar  should  be  hard  and  dry,  with  no  wood- 
work in  its  construction.  To  obtain  this  result,  cover  the  floor 
about  three  inches  deep  with  coarse  gravel,  or  broken  stone,  well 
pounded  to  a level  surface.  Fill  this  with  a thin  mortar,  composed 
of  one  part  hydraulic  cement  and  two  parts  sharp  sand,  smoothing 
it  off  with  a trowel  or  plasterer’s  level.  When  we  mention  sharp 
sand,  we  mean  coarse,  clean  sand. 

Build  a flue,  say  8x12  inches  (with  an  opening  next  to  the  floor 
of  the  cellar  fully  that  size),  from  the  bottom  of  cellar  foundation 
alongside  of  and  extending  to  top  of  kitchen  chimney,  the  heat  of 
which  will  create  a constant,  upward  current  of  air  from  the  cellar. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  cellar  from  this  ventilating  flue  make  an  air 
inlet  near  the  ceiling  for  the  purpose  of  supplying  fresh  air  to  the 
cellar.  This  will  keep  the  cellar  dry  and  the  atmosphere  healthy. 
Put  a wire  netting  over  the  opening  to  prevent  the  entrance  of  rats 
and  mice.  If  from  the  nature  of  the  location,  or  other  causes,  a 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDKRb. 


23 


cellar  is  damp,  dig  a trench  all  around  a little  below  and  outside  of 
the  foundation  wall;  this  trench  should  be  covered  with  flat  stones 
and  earth  filled  in  a little  above  the  surface  line,  so  that  surface 
water  will  flow  from,  and  not  settle  next  to,  the  foundation  walls. 
When  the  cellar  is  completed  whitewash  the  walls  and  ceiling. 


OUR  “OUEEN  ANNE”  VALLEY, 

FOR  SLATE,  TIN  OR  WOOD  SHINGLES. 


Patented  October  30th,  1883. 


This  cut  fairly  illustrates 
our  improvement.  The  cor- 
rugations at  the  side  keep 
the  edges  rigid,  and  prevent 
the  edges  from  dipping  into 
any  space  that  may  be  be- 
tween the  roof  boards  where 
they  are  not  laid  close.  Be- 
sides this,  they  dispense  with 
the  necessity  of  chalk  lines, 
and  hold  the  shingle  or  slate 
from  lying  close  upon  the 
metal,  preventing  decay  both 
of  wood  and  metal.  A con- 
venience and  benefit  to  every 
builder. 


To  be  used  where  the  pitch  of  the 
roof  is  equal  to  that  necessary 
in  using  the  ordinary  shingle. 


24 


Practical  hints  To  uuilders. 


Design  G. — Front  Elevation. 

EIGHT-ROOM,  TWO-STORY  HOUSE. 

Estimated  Cost,  with  Bath  and  Furnace,  $3,000  to  $3,500. 

Roof  to  be  covered  with  10x14  No.  1 Standard  Tin  Shingles;  gables  with 
7x10,  same  quality;  and  porches  with  Broad-Rib  Tin  Plate  Roofing. 


Smithtown  Branch,  L.  I.,  November  27th,  1886. 

Dear  Sirs: — During  the  recent  very  heavy  storms — wind  and  rain — the 
roof  on  my  house,  put  on  with  Walter's  Patent  Tin  Shingles,  stood  the  test;  not 
a single  leak  has  ever  been  discovered,  not  even  around  the  chimneys,  valleys, 
nor  where  the  roof  of  the  wing  butts  up  against  the  main  building.  The  work 
was  done  in  April  last,  and  never  leaked,  and  I think  never  will,  as  long  as  the 
material  lasts. 

You  will  remember  how  reluctant  I was  to  try  the  shingles,  but  I am  now 
glad  that  I did  so,  for  I not  only  have  a good  first-class  roof — fire-proof — but  I 
also  have  the  handsomest  roof  in  our  town.  I promised  you  I would  come  in 
and  see  you,  and  tell  you  how  I liked  the  shingles,  but  not  having  done  so,  I 
write  you  this.  Yours  very  truly,  COE  D.  SMITH. 


Practical  hints  to  builders. 


25 


Design  G. — (Elevation,  page  24.) 


New  Bedford,  Mass.,  June  24th,  1887. 

Gentlemen: — The  Metallic  Shingles,  which  were  put  on  by  you  on  the  roof 
of  the  New  Bristol  County  Jail  and  House  of  Correction  at  this  place,  are  en- 
tirely satisfactory  in  every  respect,  the  manner  in  which  the  plates  are  rolled 
overcoming  all  objections  to  the  expansion  and  contraction  of  the  metal.  Those 
that  were  put  on  here  were  of  hard  rolled  copper,  and  have  now  turned  a beau- 
tiful bronze  color,  and  is  very  much  admired  by  all  who  have  seen  it.  The  roof 
cannot  but  be  an  extremely  desirable  roof,  and  I do  not  see  that  it  can  need 
repairs  of  any  kind  for  years  to  come.  Yours  very  truly, 

ROBERT  H.  SLACK,  Architect, 


PKAOfiCAL  HINTS  TO  EClLDEkSi 


' if) 


WOOD  AND  METAL  SHINGLES. 


COMPARATIVE  COST. 


We  are  often  asked  if 
our  metal  shingles  are  as 
cheap  as  wood  shingles. 
While  we  cannot  consistent- 
ly say  they  are  not;  still,  if 
Ave  say  they  are,  they  refer 
to  our  price  list,  which 
necessitates  an  explanation 
something  like  this: 

We  will  suppose  a dwell- 
ing is  to  be  built  to*  cost,  say  $2,500.  Such  a house  will  usually 
require  about  20  squares  of  roof  covering,  which,  if  done  with  wood 
shingles,  fixes  the  cost  of  fire  insurance  about  one-quarter  of  one  per 
cent,  higher  than  a metal  roof  during  its  existence.  This  extends 
not  only  to  the  house,  but  all  contained  in  such  roofed  houses.  And 
this  is  the  case,  no  matter  how  good  the  wood  shingles  are. 

In  making  this  comparison,  we  will  consider  such  shingles  as  are 
generally  used  in  the  older  settled  portions  of  the  country.  We  are 
aware  that  shingles  made  from  well-matured  timber,  straight-grained, 
free  from  sap  and  wind-shakes,  full  length,  hand  drawn  to  five-eighths 
of  an  inch  at  the  butt,  four  inches  wide,  and  carefully  put  on  make  a 
good,  durable  roof.  But  shingles  of  that  kind  are  only  to  be  had  in 
the  thinly  settled  portions  of  the  country. 

It  is  the  broad,  thin,  split  or  sawed  shingles,  found  in  all  markets, 
which  we  contend  are  more  expensive  than  our  metal  shingles. 
These  do  not  last,  on  an  average,  more  than  fifteen  years,  and  after 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


27 


ten  years  the  repairs  are  a continual  expense  until  removed  and  re- 
placed with  new  material,  which  is  not  often  done  until  some  of  the 
woodwork  is  badly  damaged,  and  ceiling  cracked  and  stained  from 
frequent  leakages.  On  the  other  hand,  tin  shingles  will  last  for  any 
length  of  time , if  painted  once  in  every  five  or  six  years,  and  show  no 
perceptible  wear. 


Cost  of  a TIN  SHINGLE  Roof  for  a period  of  Fifteen  Years. 


Twenty  squares  of  Tin  Shingles,  at  $6.75  per  square $135  00 

Labor  of  putting  on  same 10  00 

One  coat  of  paint  after  roof  is  laid 8 00 


. Total  cost  of  same 

One  coat  of  paint  at  expiration  of  five  years 

One  coat  of  paint  at  expiration  of  ten  years 

One  coat  of  paint  at  expiration  of  fifteen  years  

Insurance  on  $2,500  for  fifteen  years,  at  one-half  of  one  per  cent,  per 
annum 


$153  00 
10  00 
ro  00 
10  00 

187  50 


Total  cost  at  expiration  of  fifteen  years $370  50 


Cost  of  a WOOD  SHINGLE  Roof  for  a Period  of  Fifteen  Years. 


Twenty  squares  of  Wood  Shingles,  at  $3.25  per  square $65  00 

Putting  on  same 20  00 

Expense  of  five  years’  repairs,  after  expiration  of  ten  years;  damage  to 

roof  and  ceiling  caused  by  leakage  not  counted 15  00 

Insurance  on  $2,500  for  fifteen  years,  at  three-quarters  of  one  percent. 

per  annum 281  25 

Expense  of  covering  at  expiration  of  fifteen  years  85  00 


Total 


$466  25 


Making  a difference  in  favor  of  Tin  Shingles  in  a period  of 

fifteen  years  of $95.75 


28 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


THE  ROOF. 


A roof  for  your  house  is  indispensable,  and  because  it  is  so,  let  it 
be  a good  one.  No  part  of  your  house  is  subject  to  the  same  amount 

of  exposure,  and  there  is  no 
part  independent  of  its  pro- 
tection. If  you  have  built 
for  the  personal  comfort  of 
yourself  and  family,  do  not 
slight  the  roof  because  cheap, 
plain  material  is  the  most 
convenient.  There  is  really 
no  economy  in  doing  so.  It 
is  outside,  to  be  sure,  but, 
like  the  chimney,  it  is  a ne- 
cessity. As  we  cannot  ig- 
nore it,  we  must  try  to  make 
it;  as  a part  of  the  house, 
attractive.  No  money  spent 
on  the  house  will  add  more 
to  its  selling  value  than  that 
(For  Finiats,  see  page  74.)  expended  in  taste  and  ma- 

terial for  the  roof. 

The  difference  expended  in  favor  of  good  material  adds  to  every 
part  of  the  structure.  The  roof  is  about  the  first  thing  the  prospec- 
tive purchaser  sees.  He 
cannot  help  it;  it  is  right 
before  his  eyes.  His  first 
impressions  are  the  hard- 
est to  overcome. 

A good  roof  must  be, 
first,  rain-proof;  second, 
fire-proof;  third,  light  in 
weight;  fourth,  durable; 
fifth,  ornamental;  sixth, 
not  liable  to  get  out  of 
order.  You  can  have  your 
house  covered  with  such  a 
roof, and  not  pass  the  limit- 
ed boundaries  of  economy. 

Read  carefully  the  pages  of  this  little  book  devoted  to  roofing 
materials  and  sundries. 


i’RACTICAL  HINTS  TO  HUiLDERS. 


THE  KITCHEN. 


Somehow,  our  architects  and  builders  habitually  neglect  to 
study  the  requirements  of  the  kitchen,  but  persist  in  constructing 
for  this  use  a plainly  constructed  room,  generally  cramped  in  size, 
with  no  means  of  escaping  the  great  heat  generated  by  the  range  or 
stove,  which  in  the  hot  months  of  summer  is  almost  unbearable.  If 
men  were  often  obliged  to  remain  in  such  a place,  a large  part  of  the 
day  during  the  hot  season,  they  would  be  quick  to  seize  upon  any 
plan  which  would  mitigate  the  heat.  But  as  their  wives,  daughters 
or  “help”  preside  in  that  department,  they  offer  no  amendment  to 
the  long-established  mode  of  kitchen  construction. 

Now,  a kitchen  can  be  so  constructed  that  even  with  the  largest 
size  family-stove  or  range  in  use,  it  will  be  as  comfortable  as  any 
other  room  in  the  house,  and  at  an  expense  not  to  exceed  the  cost 
of  the  stove  or  range  used.  To  do  this,  build  of  brick  a large  open 
fire-place,  say  from  three  to  twelve  inches  broader  than  the  length  of 
the  stove  or  range  to  be  used,  and  from  front  to  rear  deep  enough  to 
receive  the  same.  It  is  best  to  set  an  ordinary  cook-stove  with  the 
side  to  the  front,  so  that  the  oven  door  can  be  convenient.  The 
oven  door,  of  course,  on  the  opposite  side  is  permanently  closed. 
The  range  being  differently  constructed  can  readily  be  set  in  the 
brick  enclosure  or  open  fire-place,  the  walls  of  which  should  be  built 
perpendicular  to  the  floor,  and  about  five  feet  high.  The  back  wall 
should  be  sufficiently  thick  to  commence  at  this  point  a smoke-flue 
8x12  inches,  with  an  opening  to  receive  the  smoke-pipe  from  the 
range  or  stove,  and  continue  it  out  through  the  roof  of  house  (see 
“Chimneys”);  resting  on  the  walls  of  this  open  fire-place  build, 
either  with  wood  or  brick,  a tapering  fine,  so  that  after  emerging 
from  the  roof  it  will  expose  an  opening  of  not  less  than  four  square 
feet.  A cap  should  be  put  over  this  to  prevent  an  entrance  of  rain, 
but  not  to  contract  the  draught  space. 

You  will  see  by  this  arrangement  you  have  a large  chimney  with 
a fire-place  at  the  bottom  large  enough  to  receive  the  stove  or  range. 


30 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


Now  construct  a sliding  sash  with  double  strength  glass,  and  bal- 
anced with  weights,  with  the  upper  end  of  sash  inside  the  draught 
flue,  and  the  lower  end  to  reach  within  a foot  of  the  floor,  and  about 
four  inches  from  the  side  of  stove.  You  will  readily  perceive  that 
the  heat  from  the  stove  inside  the  flue  will  constantly  cause  a strong 
draught  between  the  bottom  of  the  sash  and  the  floor,  which  will 
prevent  heat  from  escaping  into  the  kitchen,  keeping  it  as  cool  as 
any  room  in  the  house.  Even  with  the  sash  up,  the  draught  will 
take  nearly  all  the  heat  through  the  flue  over  the  stove,  carrying 
with  it  the  steam  and  odor  during  the  process  of  cooking.  A coat  of 
whitewash  inside  the  brick-work  will  add  to  the  appearance  and  give 
light,  which  is  shadowed  by  the  flue. 

The  kitchen  should  be  large  and  light,  and,  if  possible,  be  joined 
by  a broad  covered  porch,  upon  which  much  of  the  kitchen  work 
can  be  done  in  warm  weather. 

As  this  little  book  is  merely  hints  to  builders,  we  cannot  go  into 
the  details  of  hot  and  cold  water,  stationary  wash-tubs  and  such 
matters.  But  we  will  say,  more  important  than  all  this  is  a well- 
constructed  drain  pipe,  not  less  than  three  inches  in  diameter,  lead- 
ing from  the  kitchen  sink  to  a point  some  distance  (according  to  the 
nature  of  the  ground)  from  the  house.  This  pipe  inside  the  kitchen, 
should  have  a trap  to  prevent  offensive  odors  escaping  into  the 
room. 


SAMPLE  SHINGLES. 

We  will  send  free,  and  charges  paid,  samples  of  our  Walter’s 
Patent  Shingles  (three  pieces)  to  any  address  in  the  United  States 
on  receipt  of  five  two-cent  stamps;  this  does  not  pay  us  one-half  the 
expense,  but  we  propose  to  make  the  cost  as  light  as  possible  to 
those  interested  in  building. 

THE  NATIONAL  SHEET  METAL  ROOFING  CO., 

510  to  520  East  20th  Street, 

New  York  City. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


31 


Design  F. — Front  Elevation. 
SEVEN-ROOM,  TWO-STORY  HOUSE. 
Estimated  Cost,  with  Bath  and  Furnace,  $2,300  to  $2,600. 


BRONZE  METAL  SHINGLES. — We  believe  we  are  the  first  to  offer  Bronze 
Metal  Shingles  to  the  World;  certainly  the  first  to  manufacture  them  in  the 
United  States.  No  other  metal  known  for  house  covering  is  their  equal,  not 
excepting  copper,  which  in  its  pure  state  is  rather  soft  and  pliable,  unless  of  a 
weight  to  practically  exclude  its  use. 

Bronze  Metal  is  hard,  rigid  and  sufficiently  ductile  to  make  the  most  ser- 
viceable roofing  material  for  public  and  first-class  private  buildings  in  the 
world.  Any  house  designed  to  exist  as  a memorial  of  man’s  sagacity  and 
thrift  should  be  covered  with  these  shingles.  They  are  as  enduring  as  mar- 
ble; they  will  wear  for  any  length  of  time. 

We  make  them  in  three  sizes — 7 by  10,  10  by  14,  and  Queen  Anne  style. 
Prices  furnished  upon  application. 

The  National  Sheet  Metai.  Roofing  Co., 

Office,  510  to  520  East  20th  Street,  New  York  City, 


32 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


Roof  to  be  covered  with  10x14  No.  1 Standard  Tin  Shingles;  gables  with 
7x10,  same  quality;  and  porches  with  Broad-Rib  Tin  Roofing.  Use  attic  venti- 
lators and  lights  (see  page  73)  on  main  roof. 


Lititz,  Pa.,  February  27th,  1885. 

Dear  Sirs: — I was  the  first  man  in  this  town  to  cover  my  new  house,  built 
last  summer,  with  Walter’s  Patent  Charcoal  Tin  Shingles,  and  will  say  that 
they  have  given,  thus  far,  entire  satisfaction.  They  are  not  only  ornamental 
but  durable,  and  since  my  roof  has  introduced  them  in  our  town,  a great  many 
have  been  put  on,  all  giving  satisfaction.  I am  sure  that  this  is  the  material 
for  roofing  houses  in  the  future.  They  are  better  than  any  other  roof  now  in 
use,  and  will  take  the  place  of  wood  shingles,  which  are  getting  scarce,  and  also 
of  slate  roofs,  which  are  broken  by  storms.  Mine  has  stood  the  test  of  the 
severest  storms,  during  the  summer  and  winter,  known  here  for  many  years,  and 
has  proven  itself  what  you  claim  it  is — absolutely  wind,  rain  and  storm-proof 

JOHNSON  MILLER,  Secretary, 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


33 


First  Floor. 


Second  Floor. 


Design  F. — (Elevations,  pages  31  and  32.) 


Cedar  Bluff,  Ala.,  February  20th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — Enclosed  find  exchange  for  one  hundred  and  forty  and 
dollars  to  cover  bill  roofing. 

I am  delighted  with  the  Walter’s  shingle,  and  the  universal  verdict  of  all 
who  have  seen  my  roof  is  that  it  is  a perfect  beauty.  You  will  hear  from  me 
again,  and  you  may  expect  other  orders  from  this  place. 

Yours  truly, 


R.  LAWRENCE, 


34 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


BRICK-WORK. 

“Brick  from  the  run  of  the  kiln”  will  answer  for  most  houses; 
those  of  even  color,  well-burnt  and  regular  shape,  should  be  selected 
for  the  outside  walls  and  chimneys.  Those  of  irregular  shape,  too 
hard  or  too  soft  for  outside  walls,  can  be  used  for  filling  in,  or  par- 
tition walls.  No  soft  burnt  brick  should  be  allowed  where  exposed 
to  the  weather.  Supposing  the  foundation  is  finished,  and  first-floor 
joists  are  laid,  commence  by  filling  between  joists,  flush  with  the  top 
of  joists  and  even  with  the  inside  of  foundation  walls,  so  no  shelves 
are  left  between  the  joists  for  the  purpose  shown  in  hints  under  the 
head  of  “ Foundation,”  page  6. 

If  the  inside  of  outside  walls  are  to  be  furred,  be  prepared  to 
insert  strips  about  the  thickness  of  common  lath  between  brick  joints 
at  points  where  base  boards  are  to  be  put,  and  to  fasten  long  strips 
or  grounds  as  called  by  plasterers.  No  mortar  should  be  put  be- 
tween the  lath  strip  and  the  brick,  but  let  the  lath  be  pressed  by  the 
surface  of  the  upper  and  lower  brick;  the  natural  settling  of  the  wall 
will  hold  the  lath  tight  enough  to  bear  any  amount  of  nailing. 

For  doors  and  windows,  insert  pieces  same  thickness,  but  large 
enough  to  receive  the  casings.  These  thin  pieces  inserted  in  the 
mortar  joints  are  better  and  cheaper  than  plugs  or  wooden  brick, 
which  are  apt  to  shrink  and  become  loose  when  the  brick-work  dries. 
It  is  very  important  that  flues  for  ventilation  and  chimneys  be  prop- 
erly started  (see  “ Chimneys  ”)  and  carried  through  the  roof  to  a 
height,  if  possible,  above  the  apex  of  the  roof.  Ventilating  flues 
should  run  alongside  the  chimney  flues  where  the  construction  favors 
them.  Too  much  care  cannot  be  taken  in  building  these  flues.  They 
should  be  carefully  and  smoothly  plastered  on  the  inside,  and  no 
wood-work  be  allowed  nearer  than  five  inches  from  the  inside  of  flue. 
It  is  customary  to  use  headers  (cross  bricks)  every  five  courses,  to 
bind  the  walls  together.  Many  people  object  to  headers,  and  prefer 
to  expose  only  the  edge  surface  of  the  brick.  This  can  be  done  by 
clipping  the  inside  courses  of.  outside  brick  so  as  to  allow  the  middle 


practical  hints  to  Wilder:}. 


35 


Course  to  lay  angular  across  the  wall,  with  opposite  courses  resting 
half  way  between  and  on  the  outside  courses,  or  by  using  square 
brick.  The  latter  is  a saving  of  labor  if  they  can  be  had  at  a reason- 
able price.  The  thickness  of  walls  depends  entirely  upon  the  size  of 
structure  to  be  built.  For  ordinary  dwelling-houses,  twelve  inches 
is  thick  enough  for  outside  walls  and  nine  inches  for  partition  walls. 
Mortar  for  brick-work  above  foundation  should  be  made  of  one  part 
of  good  lime,  slacked  at  time  of  mixing  the  mortar,  and  four  parts  of 
screened  sharp  sand.  The  cementing  qualities  of  sand  and  fresh 
lime  depend  on  the  purity  of  the  sand.  By  pure  sand  we  mean  that 
which  is  free  from  loam  or  clay. 


STANDARD 

CHARCOAL  ROOFING  TIN  SHINGLES. 

Our  Standard  Charcoal  Roofing  Tin  Shingles  are  made  of  such 
brands  as  “Mansel,”  “Dean,”  “Worcester,”  “ P.  T.  L.”  Szc.,  and 
guaranteed  to  be  first-class,  well-coated  plates,  perfect  in  finish. 
Next  comes  our  Galvanized  (re-dipped)  shingle;  this  is  our  Standard 
Tin  Shingle,  taken  after  it  is  made  and  dipped  into  melted  zinc,  add- 
ing a second  coat  of  fully  twenty  pounds  on  each  square,  giving  with 
the  tin,  a more  durable  coating  than  that  used  on  galvanized  iron, 
making  it  absolutely  rust-proof  and  saving  painting.  Next  is  what 
we  call  “ Old  Process”  or  “ M.  F.”  This  is  what  is  known  as  “ Old 
Style,”  “Double-Dipped,”  “Old  Method,”  and  other  names,  but 
what  is  really  a very  superior  article  of  roofing  plate,  having  a much 
heavier  coating  than  “ Standard,”  but,  like  it,  has  to  be  painted. 
There  are  many  brands  of  practically  one  quality  in  the  market,  and, 
having  no  choice  ourselves,  we  supply  the  brand  preferred;  but  if  the 
best  is  asked  for,  we  send  “ Old  Process,”  believing  it  to  be  equal 
to  any.  ■ 


THE  NATIONAL  SHEET  METAL  ROOFING  CO. 


36 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDER^. 


THINGS  ARE  ONLY  GOOD  OR  BAD 
BY  COMPARISON. 


Walter’s  Patent  Metallic  Shingles  Compared  with  Slate. 

Our  shingles  are  not  one-sixth  the  weight  of  slate,  which  greatly 
reduces  the  cost  of  the  frame-work  of  roof.  They  readily  conform 
to  the  shape  of  a roof,  which  slate  will  not  do.  Slate  is  not  thor- 
oughly fire-proof,  as  heat  from  an  adjoining- building  on  fire  will 
cause  the  slate  to  crack,  which  would  destroy  the  best  roof  in  a few 
minutes,  leaving  the  sheeting  exposed.  Especially  is  this  the  case  if 
water  is  thrown  on  them  while  hot. 

Our  shingles  are  free  from  the  many  accidents  to  which  slate 
roofs  are  liable,  such  as  cracking  from  shrinkage  of  wood-work  to 
which  they  are  attached;  breaking,  caused  by  necessary  repairs  to 
the  valleys  or  chimneys;  and  the  effect  of  frost  on  defective  slate. 
Such  defects  cannot  always  be  avoided  by  ordinary  observation. 
All  builders  of  experience  are  aware  of  the  expensive  repairs  nec- 
essary to  keep  a slate  roof  in  good  order,  but  perhaps  the  most  in- 
consistent thing  connected  with  the  whole  roofing  business  is  the  fact 
that  nineteen-twentieths  of  all  the  houses  covered  with  slate  have 
gutters  lined  with  the  same  material  of  which  our  shingles 
are  made,  while  slate  was  used  for  covering  because  of  its  sup- 
posed durability. 

Should  anything  fall  on  our  shingles  it  would  probably  dent 
them  without  causing  a break;  but  should  it  perforate  them,  the 
shingles  can  be  replaced  by  another,  or  a leak  can  be  soldered,  and 
fire  from  an  adjoining  roof  cannot  more  than  injure  the  paint.  They 
will  cool  off  rapidly,  retaining  their  shape. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


37 


Walter's  Patent  Tin  Shingles  Compared  with  Ordinary 
Tin  Roofing. 

Of  this  we  speak  with  the  advantage  of  many  years’  experience 
as  practical  roofers.  The  great  difficulty  metal  roofers  have  to  con- 
tend with  is  contraction  and  expansion  of  the  metal  under  the 
changes  of  temperature.  This  cause  alone  calls  for  continued 
repairs  in  all  flat  lock  or  standing  seam  roofs,  and  the  seams  under- 
neath are  receptacles  for  any  moisture  which  may  condense  on  the 
underside  of  the  metal.  All  such  roofs  first  show  decay  in  the  cross 
seams,  and  this,  while  the  body  of  the  plates  shows  no  sign  of  decay. 
Our  shingles  have  no  cross  seam,  and  are  sufficiently  ventilated  to 
prevent  condensation  of  moisture;  while  a glance  at  their  construc- 
tion shows  at  once  that  the  difficulty  caused  by  contraction  and 
expansion  is  successfully  overcome.  Our  shingles  do  not  require 
the  skilled  labor  which  is  necessary  to  lay  the  flat  lock  or  standing 
groove  metal  roofing,  while  the  time  required  to  lay  a given  surface 
is  much  less. 

In  estimating  the  difference  of  cost  between  the  ordinary  tin 
roofing  and  our  shingle,  a steep  roof  house  alone  must  be  taken  in 
consideration,  as  our  shingle  is  not  proposed  for  a flat  roof.  (See 
“Comparative  Cost,”  pages  26  and  27.) 


ROOFING  SUNDRIES. 


We  were  the  first  to  manufacture  a full  line  of  Valley,  Hip  and 
Ridge  Coping,  Gable,  &c.,  to  enable  the  builder  or  roofer  to  use 
them  at  a reasonable  price,  and  are  the  only  factory  in  America  pre- 
pared to  furnish  such  trimming  in  any  quantity;  and  while  they  are 
not  absolutely  necessary,  they  greatly  lessen  the  amount  of  labor  and 
cost  of  laying,  besides  adding  a finish  to  the  roof  not  otherwise  ob- 
tained, so  that  the  saving  in  labor  will  pay  the  additional  cost. 


Design  E. — Front  and  Side  Elevation . 

SIX-ROOM  COTTAGE. 

Estimated  Cost,  with  Bath  and  Furnace,  $2,000  to  $2,300. 

Use  Broad-Rib  Steel  Plate  with  attic  vents  (see  page  73)  for  roof,  and  10  x 14  No.  2 Metal  Shingles  for  gables. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


39 


Second  Floor. 


Design  E.  — Elevations , page  38. 


ROOF  PAINT. — We  use  the  best  Brown  Mineral  Oxide  of  Iron,  roasted 
and  double-ground,  mixed  with  boiled  linseed  oil,  grinding  them  together, 
and  adding  only  enough  turpentine  to  dry  in  the  air  in  seventy-two  hours. 
We  first  dip  the  shingles,  and  after  they  have  stood  a short  time,  and  before 
the  paint  has  set,  they  are  carefully  gone  over  with  a brush,  insuring  an  even, 
perfect  coat,  not  obtainable  in  any  ordinary  way  of  painting. 


All  tin  roofers,  who  have  experience,  know  the  importance  of  putting  on 
a second  coat.  In  spite  of  the  best  care  in  laying,  more  or  less  paint  is 
scratched  off,  and  without  a second  coat  the  roof  is  not  finished.  Architects 
and  builders  always  require  it,  and  if  a heavy  single  coat  of  paint  is  given 
the  roof  every  five  or  six  years,  there  will  be  no  perceptible  wear  on  the  tin, 
insuring  many  years’  service, 


4o 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


OUR  NEW  PATENT. 


Our  Queen  Anne  Shingles  are  designed  expressly  to  meet  a 
want  often  expressed  for  an  attractive  and  artistic  roof  covering  and 
outside  decorating.  They  are  not  intended  to  take  the  place  of  our 
Standard  Walter’s  Patent,  which  for  general  use  are  incomparable, 
but  less  ornamental  than  the  Queen  Anne  Shingles.  They  have 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


41 


bold  clean  cut  lines,  producing,  from  the  effects  of  light  and  shade, 
the  most  striking  and  artistic  roof  yet  produced  by  metallic  shingles 
or  tiles. 

For  church  spires,  belt  coursing,  towers  or  mansard  roofing, 
they  cannot  be  excelled.  The  cut  illustrates  the  kind  of  finish  used 
at  the  eaves  and  verge  board.  The  same  ridge  coping  used  for  our 
Standard  Shingles  can  be  used  for  this.  This  shingle  must  be  seen 
to  be  appreciated. 

We  recommend  the  Bronze  Metal,  or  the  Galvanized  Shingles 
for  use  on  public  or  first-class  private  buildings,  because  such  build- 
ings should  be  covered  with  the  best  roofing  material  to  be  had. 


Each  superficial  foot  of  brick  wall, 


4 

8 


inches  thick 

<<  U 


I 2 
l6 
20 


24 


it 


requires  7 

“ 15 

“ 22 


brick. 

<< 

u 


it 

u 

it 


29 

37 

45 


U 

U 

u 


SURFACE  MEASURE. — All  roofers  compute  roofing  jobs  by  squares, 
which  means  ioo  square  feet,  or  io  feet  square.  If  you  go  to  your  architect 
or  roofer  and  ask  him  how  much  it  will  take  or  cost  to  cover  your  roof,  he 
will  first  ascertain  how  many  square  feet  there  are  to  be  covered;  and  if,  for 
example,  there  are  2,500  square  feet  he  will  tell  you  there  are  twenty-five 
squares  to  be  covered;  and  in  order  to  intelligently  supply  what  is  wanted, 
we  put  up  our  shingles  in  boxes  of  one  square  each;  that  is  to  say,  each  box 
of  one  square  will  cover  one  hundred  square  feet  after  they  have  been  put  on. 


42 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


OLD  MATERIALS. 

In  tearing  down  old  work  be  as  careful  as  in  patting  up  new. 

Old  material  should  never  be  destroyed  simply  because  it  is  old. 

When  putting  away  old  stuff  see  that  it  is  protected  from  rain 
and  the  atmosphere. 

It  costs  about  15  per  cent,  extra  to  work  up  old  material,  and 
this  fact  should  be  borne  in  mind,  as  I have  known  several  con- 
tractors who  paid  dearly  for  their  “whistle”  in  estimating  on  work- 
ing up  second-hand  material. 

These  remarks  apply  to  wood-work  only.  In  using  old  bricks, 
stone,  slate  and  other  miscellaneous  materials,  it  is  as  well  to  add 
double  price  for  working  up. 

Workmen  do  not  care  to  handle  old  material,  and  justly  so.  It 
is  ruinous  to  tools,  painful  to  handle,  and  very  destructive  to  clothing. 

In  my  experience  I always  found  it  pay  to  advance  the  wages  of 
workmen — skilled  mechanics — while  working  up  old  material.  This 
encouraged  the  men  and  spurred  them  to  better  efforts. 

Sash  frames,  with  sash  weights,  locks  and  trim  complete,  may  be 
taken  out  of  old  buildings  that  are  being  taken  down  and  preserved 
just  as  good  as  new  by  screwing  slats  and  braces  on  them,  which  not 
only  keeps  the  frame  square,  but  prevents  the.glass  from  being  broken. 

Doors,  frames  and  trims  may  also  be  kept  in  good  order  until 
used,  by  taking  the  same  precautions  as  in  window  frames. 

Old  scantlings  and  joists  should  have  all  nails  drawn  or  ham- 
mered in  before  piling  away. 

Counters,  shelving,  drawers  and  other  store-fittings  should  be 
kindly  dealt  with.  They  will  be  wanted  sooner  or  later. 

Take  care  of  the  locks,  hinges,  bolts,  keys  and  other  hardware. 
Each  individual  piece  represents  money  in  a greater  or  lesser  sum. 

Old  flooring  can  seldom  be  utilized,  though  I have  seen  it  used 
for  temporary  purposes,  such  as  fencing,  covering  of  veranda  floors 
while  finishing  work  on  plastering,  etc.  As  a rule,  however,  it  does 
not  pay  to  take  it  up  carefully  and  preserve  it.  Conductor  pipes, 
metallic  cornices,  and  sheet  metal  work  generally,  can  seldom  be 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


43 


made  available  a second  time  though  all  is  worth  caring  for,  as  some 
parties  may  use  it  for  repairs. 

Sinks,  wash-basins,  bath-tubs,  traps,  heating  appliances,  grates, 
mantels  and  hearth-stones  should  be  moved  with  care.  They  are 
always  worth  money  and  may  be  used  in  many  places  as  substitutes 
for  more  inferior  fixings. 

Marble  mantels  require  the  most  careful  handling. 

Perhaps  the  most  difficult  fixings  about  a house  to  adapt  a 
second  time  are  the  stairs.  Yet  I have  known  where  a man  has  so 
managed  to  put  up  new  buildings  that  the  old  stairs  taken  from 
another  building  just  suited.  This  may  have  been  a “favorable 
accident,”  but  the  initiated  reader  will  understand  him.  Seldom 
such  accidents  can  occur. 

Rails,  balusters  and  newels  may  be  utilized  much  readier  than 
stairs,  as  the  rail  may  be  lengthened  or  shortened  to  suit  variable 
conditions. 

Gas  fixtures  should  be  cared  for  and  stowed  away  in  some  dry 
place.  They  can  often  be  made  available,  and  are  not  easily  reno- 
vated if  soiled  or  tarnished. 

It  is  not  wise  to  employ  men  who  have  nothing  but  their 
strength  to  recommend  them.  As  a rule  they  are  like  bears — have 
more  strength  than  knowledge,  and  lack  of  the  latter  is  often  an 
expensive  desideratum.  Employ  for  taking  down  the  work  good 
careful  mechanics,  and  do  not  have  the  work  “ rushed  through.” 
Rushers  of  this  sort  are  expensive. 

Never  send  old  material  to  a mill  to  be  sawed  or  planed,  no 
matter  how  carefully  nails,  pebbles  and  sand  have  been  hunted  for, 
the  saw  or  planer  knives  will  most  assuredly  find  some  you  have 
overlooked,  then  there  will  be  trouble  at  the  mill. 

Have  some  mercy  for  the  workman’s  tools.  If  it  can  be  avoided 
do  not  work  up  old  stuff  into  fine  work.  If  not  avoidable  pay  the 
workman  something  extra  because  of  injury  to  tools. 

Don’t  grumble  if  you  do  not  get  as  good  results  from  the  use  of 
old  material  as  from  new.  The  workman  has  much  to  contend  with 
while  working  up  old  nail-speckled,  sand-covered  material. 

Builder  and  Woodworker. 


44 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


HEATING. 


I once  knew  a church  building 
committee  who  planned  and  built 
quite  a large  church,  and  when  I was 
called  in  to  arrange  for  heating  the 
building  with  a large  furnace,  the 
furnace  committee  were  astonished 
when  told  that  the  building  commit- 
tee had  forgotten  the  fact  that  the 
hot-air  furnace  required  a chimney. 

The  construction  of  many  houses 
suggests  that  houses  built  in  the 
hot  months  of  summer  needed  no 
special  provision  for  heating.  This 
is  an  important  subject,  and  should 
be  carefully  considered  in  the  con- 
struction of  the  plainest  house.  Always  take  climate,  location  and 
fuel  into  consideration.  The  open  fire  place,  with  fire  on  the  hearth, 
is  without  doubt  the  most  cheerful  and  healthful.  This  is  the  favor- 
ite and  best  mode  for  plain  country  homes.  But  in  all  instances,  for 
churches  and  public  halls,  the  open  fire-place  is  not  to  be  depended 
upon.  There  is  a variety  of  good  steam-heaters  and  hot-air  furnaces 
to  choose  from.  Consult  the  parties  from  whom  you  buy  as  to  the 
size  of  heater  required;  its  location,  size  of  cold-air  duct,  register, 
pipe,  etc. 

For  small  rural  churches  that  have  no  basement,  construct  a 
small  room  under  the  front  entrance  or  vestibule  ; eight  feet  square, 
inside  measure,  is  sufficient.  Near  its  floor  have  a cold-air  entrance 
leading  to  the  furnace.  Cover  the  opening  with  wire  netting  to  pre- 
vent the  entrance  of  mice.  Use  brick  for  the  room,  building  the 
walls  eight  inches  thick;  leave  openings  2^x4  inches,  about  one  foot 
apart  all  around  the  bottom  next  to  the  floor.  Carry  the  wall  close  to 
the  ceiling,  and  make  it  tight  by  plastering  carefully  inside  and  out 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


45 


where  it  joins  the  ceiling.  Cover  the  ceiling,  by  nailing  to  joists, 
with  bright  sheets  of  tin,  and  white- wash  the  brick-work  inside.  For 
entrance  make  a door  6x3  feet.  A plain  wooden  one  will  answer. 
In  the  aisle  of  the  church,  immediately  over  this  room,  put  a large 
grating,  such  as  your  furnace-men  will  suggest.  In  this  room  place 
your  furnace,  and  have  it  large  enough  to  heat  the  room  above  during 
the  coldest  weather  without  excessive  firing.  With  a larger  capacity 
than  necessary,  the  furnace  will  last  longer,  burn  less  coal,  and  give 
better  results  in  every  respect.  As  the  furnace  will  radiate  consid- 
erable heat,  this  can  be  utilized  by  running  a pipe  of  proper  size 
from  the  room  to  the  vestibule  or  some  other  room.  The  objection 
to  using  this  heat  in  the  church  is  the  noise  of  firing  up,  which  would 
be  annoying  during  church  service.  However,  a furnace  properly 
attended  will  not  need  firing  during  church  service.  Remember,  a 
large  volume  of  warm  air  is  what  you  want,  and  not  a small  volume 
of  hot  air.  Never  cover  the  grating  or  close  the  cold-air  duct  to  cool 
off  while  there  is  fire  in  the  furnace,  but  open  the  doors  or  windows 
of  the  church  and  check  the  fire.  The  closing  of  the  grating  or 
cold-air  duct  will  injure  the  castings  of  the  furnace  by  overheating 
them. 


CLOSE  SHEATHING  THE  BEST. 


While  a rain-proof  roof  can  be  made  with  our  shingles,  our  sys- 
tem, as  well  as  all  metal  or  slate  roofing  should  not  be  put  upon  open 
sheathing.  If  walked  upon  the  metal  will  not  support  the  weight, 
and  bends  out  of  shape,  and  the  roof  is  blamed.  In  high  latitudes 
where  we  have  driving  storms  of  fine  snow  or  “blizzards,”  we  specify 
close  sheathing  cornered  by  paper  ( using  same  rules  as  for  laying  slate). 
We  will  then  guarantee  a perfect  roof. 

THE  NATIONAL  SHEET  METAL  ROOFING  CO., 

, 510  to  520  East  20th  Street,  New  York  City. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 

THE  CISTERN. 

Three  things  are  all  that  are  nec- 
essary to  supply  any  family  with  the 
purest  and  best  water  in  the  world 
for  drinking,  cooking  and  washing 
purposes:  a well-constructed  cistern, 
a clean  roof  and  a rain-fall. 

These  are  within  the  reach  of 
every  one  able  to  own  a home.  By 
a cistern  we  mean  an  excavation  in 
the  earth  from  twelve  to  twenty-five 
feet  deep.  Dig  deep  if  you  want  cold 
water  all  the  year  round.  From  eight- 
een to  twenty-five  feet  will  produce 
it.  If  your  cistern  is  dug  in  a clayey 
soil,  there  is  no  use  of  brick  lining; 
but  if  in  gravel,  sandy  or  rocky  soil, 
line  the  inside  with  hard,  well  burnt 
brick,  and  do  the  work  well  ; using 
for  mortar  equal  parts  of  hydraulic 
lime  and  clean,  sharp  sand.  When  completed,  plaster  the  inside  care- 
fully with  the  same  mortar.  If  the  walls  are  clay  plaster  immediately 
on  the  sides  and  bottom,  without  lining  with  brick. 

No  roofing  material  is  better  for  collecting  chemically  pure 
water  than  tin,  and  none  so  bad  as  wood  shingles.  They  hold  dirt 
which  no  ordinary  shower  will  wash  off,  and  furnish  organic  matter 
which  is  disagreeable  to  the  taste  and  smell;  the  porous  nature  of 
wood  makes  it  the  home  of  myriads  of  insects,  the  remains  of  tvhich 
are  eventually  deposited  in  the  cistern  and  poison  its  waters. 

No  such  objections  can  be  urged  against  tin  roofing.  A short 
shower  cleanses  it  thoroughly.  Water-pipes  leading  into  the  cistern 
in  every  case  should  have  a cut-off  attachment  within  easy  reach. 

There  are  several  on  the  market,  but  those  having  no  inside 
arrangement  to  get  out  of  order,  or  obstruct  the  direct  passage  of 
water  into  either  the  cistern  or  waste-pipe,  are  the  best.  The  water 
should  be  strained  before  entering  the  cistern.  This  can  be  built 


CUT-OFF  ATTACHMENT. 

A.  To  connect  with  down  pipe. 

B.  Outlet  for  waste  water. 

C.  Leads  to  filter  or  cistern. 

I).  Is  adjustable  to  fit  box  C. 

E.  Fastenings  to  wall  of  house. 

F.  Side  view  of  D. 

€f.  Handle  to  adjust  D. 

(Not  patented;  can  be  made  by  any  tinsmith.) 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


41 


of  brick  and  be  underground,  or  a cask  can  be  used  above  ground. 
A strong,  iron-bound  linseed  oil  barrel  answers  the  purpose.  Its  con- 
struction is  very  simple.  Take  out  one  end  of  the  cask  and  perfo- 
rate it  with  a sufficient  number  of  one-inch  auger  holes;  lay  four 
brick  on  edge  in  the  bottom  of  the  cask,  and  let  the  perforated  cask 
head  rest  upon  them.  Then  fill  the  cask  three-quarters  full  of  char- 
coal, pounding  it  down  on  top  pretty  hard.  Put  on  top  of  the 
charcoal  clean,  coarse  gravel  to  within  three  inches  of  the  top  of 
cask;  make  a covering  with  an  opening  to  receive  the  water  which 
flows  from  the  roof,  and  convey  the  water  from  the  bottom  of  cask 
to  the  cistern.  At  least  once  a year  this  filter  should  be  emptied 
and  cleansed,  putting  in  new  charcoal  and  washing  the  gravel  care- 
fully. Let  no  summer  months’  water  run  into  the  cistern.  See  that 
the  first  rain  of  a shower  is  used  to  wash  the  dust  and  soot  from 
your  roof  before  it  is  turned  into  the  cistern,  and  you  will  have  an 
abundance  of  water  not  equaled  by  any  well  or  spring. 


BUILDING  PAPERS. 


NEPONSET  PAPER  is  abso- 
lutely water-proof  and  air-tight,  is 
clean  to  handle,  not  tarred  felt,  but 
far  more  durable.  Its  resistance  to 
air  and  dampness  renders  it  unsur- 
passed under  clapboards,  iron  roofing 
and  wood  or  tin  shingles. 

CLIMAX  is  a light,  clean,  pink, 
colored  paper;  useful  for  any  purpose 
where  building  paper  is  required;  is 
much  cheaper  than  Neponset,  but  not 
water-proof.  The  use  of  building  pa- 
per under  roofing  or  clapboards  adds 
greatly  to  the  ease  of  warming  a 
building.  By  its  use  you  save  fuel  and 
your  house  is  more  comfortable.  Its 
cost  is  nominal  compared  with  its 
advantages.  We  keep  a large  stock 
and  fill  orders  promptly. 


4§  PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 

COLORS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM. 

Blue  and  yellow  makes  green. 

White  and  yellow  makes  buff. 

White,  yellow  and  black  makes  drab. 

White  and  black  makes  lead. 

White  and  black  makes  gray. 

White,  black  and  blue  makes  pearl. 

White  and  lake  makes  pink. 

White,  blue  and  black  makes  slate. 

Red,  black  and  blue  makes  brown. 

Red,  black  and  yellow  makes  maroon. 

Red  and  yellow  makes  orange. 

Blue  and  lake  makes  purple. 


U.  S.  Marine  Barracks,  Navy  Yard, 

Pensacola,  Fla.,  October  22d,  1887. 

Sirs: — In  compliance  with  your  request,  I have  to  say  that  about  a year 
ago  I was  called  upon  to  decide  which  of  several  kinds  of  roofing  material  to 
select  for  two  barrack  buildings,  which  I was  constructing  for  the  Government 
at  this  place.  Owing  to  the  heat  and  moisture  of  the  climate,  very  destructive 
to  wood,  and  the  proximity  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  which  makes  what  is  known 
as  a salt  atmosphere,  very  injurious  to  iron  roofing,  I was  induced  to  try  your 
system,  and  ordered  the  14x20  size,  I.  C.  Standard,  some  painted  and  some 
galvanized.  As  it  was  previously  almost  unknown  to  me,  I had  to  assume 
the  risk  of  its  success,  and  have  since  watched  it  very  closely;  the  more  so,  as 
it  was  laid  by  soldiers  entirely  unfamiliar  with  it. 

After  the  first  rain  a close  inspection  failed  to  reveal  a single  leak.  I have 
had  it  inspected  after  every  heavy  rain  since  then  with  the  same  result.  On 
the  20th  inst.  we  had  the  severest  gale  for  many  years,  and  the  roofs  not  only 
resisted  it  in  every  way,  but  there  was  no  rattle,  which  could  not  be  said  of  our 
other  tin  roofs  (old  system). 

You  can  refer  any  one  to  me  for  commendation  of  these  points  which  are 
established  ; also  of  its  architectural  beauty,  and  I have  little  doubt  as  to  the 
rest,  for  we  painted  it  very  carefully  on  both  sides. 

I am,  Sirs,  very  respectfully  yours, 

HENRY  CLAY  COCHRANE, 

Captain  U.  S.  Marine  Corps,  Commanding  Post. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


49 

The  combination  of  cherry  and  light  oak  proves  an  excellent 
one  for  over-mantels,  for,  in  addition  to  contrast  of  grain,  and  figure, 
and  hue,  is  that  of  the  high  polish  of  which  cherry  is  susceptible  with 
the  somewhat  ridgy  surface  of  the  oak. 


One  coat  of  paint  takes  20  lbs.  of  lead  and  4 gals,  of  oil  per  100 
square  yards.  The  second  coat,  40  lbs.  lead,  4 gals,  oil;  the  third, 
the  same  as  the  second — say  100  lbs.  lead,  12  gals,  oil  per  100  square 
yards,  for  three  coats. 


One  gallon 

priming  colors 

covers 

50  square  yards. 

U 

white  zinc 

u 

5° 

M 

white  lead 

u 

44 

“ 

lead  color 

a 

5° 

<< 

black  paint 

“ 

So 

<< 

stone  color 

u 

44 

M 

yellow  paint 

u 

44 

ii 

blue  color 

u 

45 

« 

green  paint 

“ 

45 

« 

bright  emerald 

<< 

25 

U 

bronze  green 

“ 

75 

50 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  LuTlDLRS, 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


51 


Design  J. — Front  Elevation. 


EIGHT-ROOM,  TWO-STORY  HOUSE. 


OUR  GUARANTEE. 

We  guarantee  our  shingles  as  follows:  If  you  will  use  them,  and  they 
are  properly  put  on  in  accordance  with  our  instructions,  and  if  they  do  not  then 
give  ■satisfaction,  we  agree  to  replace  your  roof,  free  of  expense  to  you,  with 
equally  expensive  material,  any  time  within  two  years  from  the  time  you 
put  them  on.  In  addition  to  this,  we  may  be  able  to  give  you  a local  refer- 
ence, as  our  goods  are  in  use  in  every  State  and  Territory.  We  call  your 
attention  to  the  price  list,  and  we  will  be  pleased  to  make  you  discounts  on 
application. 

THE  NATIONAL  SHEET  METAL  ROOFING  CO., 

510  to  520  East  20th  St.,  New  York  City. 


52 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS, 


Design  J. — Side  Elevation. 


Cover  roof  with  No.  i Standard  10x14  Tin  Shingles;  use  attic  vents  (see 
page  73)  on  main  roof,  and  cover  belt  courses  with  7 x 10  Tin  Shingles,  same 
quality  as  those  for  main  roof. 


The  plans  and  elevations  of  cottages  presented  in  this  book  have  each 
been  specially  prepared  for  some  individual  by  an  eminent  architect,  and 
the  proportions  and  details  can  be  relied  upon. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


53 


First  Floor. 

Design  J. — {Elevations,  pages  51  and  52.) 


54 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


SHOWING  APPLICATION  OF  OUR  RIDGE 
OR  HIP  COPING. 


Plain  Ridge. 


Manner  of  Fastening 
Climax  Ridge  to  Roof  Boards. 


Showing  Climax  Ridge  and  Gable  Finish. 


in  making  the  regular  standing  seam  used  by 
comb  of  sheet  metal  roofs. 


These  cuts  are  good 
illustrations  of  our 
Ridge  Finish,  which  is 
also  used  as  Hip  Cop- 
ing. It  is  secured  to 
the  roof  comb  by  nail- 
ing through  the  flange, 
which  rests  on  each 
side  of  the  comb.  It 
makes  a durable  and 
neat  finish;  is  of  great 
assistance  to  workmen 
not  skilled  in  metal 
roofing,  and  its  cost  is 
no  more  than  the  labor 
and  material  necessary 
roofers  in  finishing  the 


For  Re-Covering. — Use  our  Roofing;  no  other  has  the  con- 
veniences for  rapid  laying. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


55 


VENTILATION. 


As  you  value  health, 
study  well  this  important 
subject,  which  is  oftener 
neglected  in  constructing 
dwellings  than  any  other 
detail.  An  experienced 
and  observant  man  can 
pick  from  those  whom  he 


The  “Attic"  Sky-light  and  Ventilator. 
(See  page  73.) 


meets  on  the  street  men  or  women  who  habitually  sleep  in  badly 
ventilated  rooms.  The  florist  will  study  and  practice  the  best  means 
to  ventilate  his  propagating  house,  and  ignore  the  necessity  of  the 
same  principle  for  himself  and  family.  Everything  that  breathes 
— and  what  living  thing  does  not? — needs  a. change  of  air  to  remain 
in  a healthy  condition.  Leaves  are  the  lungs  of  plants,  and,  deprived 
of  this  change,  soon  assume  a delicate,  sickly  hue. 

Why  should  the  human  family,  in  full  possession  of  reasoning  pow- 
ers, ignore  the  lesson  that  is  every  day  before  them?  By  ventilation  we 
mean  a system  that  will  constantly  supply  the  dwelling  with  fresh  air; 
at  the  same  time  it  draws  the  vitiated  atmosphere  from  each  hall  and 
room  in  the  house.  This  can  be  done  during  the  process  of  erection 
in  a simple,  effectual  and  inexpensive  manner.  Even  if  it  should  cost 
more  than  you  feel  inclined  to  pay,  the  result  will  justify  the  expense. 

There  is  no  better  way  of  creating  upward  draught  than  the 
open  fire-place,  or  a flue  built  with  an  opening  near  the  floor.  Such 
flues  should  not  be  less  than  8x8  inches  for  an  ordinary  size  bed- 
room, and  should,  if  possible,  be  built  alongside  of  the  chimney  flue, 
and  extend  through  the  house-top  without  openings,  except  the  one 
nearest  the  floor  in  the  room  it  starts  from. 

As  vitiated  air  is  heavier  than  pure  air,  and  is  always  nearest  the 
floor,  the  artificial  draught  caused  by  a long,  upright  flue  is  constantly 
at  work  carrying  the  lower  atmosphere  from  each  room  in  which 
these  upward  and  outward  draught  flues  are  built.  To  supply  the 
rooms  with  fresh  air,  corresponding  flues  must  be  built  similar  in  size 


56 


PRACTICAL  hints  to  builder^. 


and  construction  to  the  above.  Commence  them  with  outside  openings 
about  on  a level  with  the  first  floor  joists,  extending  upward,  and  end 
with  openings  inward  near  the  ceiling.  Each  of  these  openings  outside 
and  inside  the  house  should  be  covered  with  coarse  wire  cloth.  That 
made  from  tinned  or  galvanized  No.  16  wire,  with  one-half  in.  meshes, 
is  the  best.  Care  should  be  taken  in  building  these  flues  to  have  them 
smoothly  plastered  on  the  inside.  An  ornamental  finish  can  be  used  at 
each  end  if  desired.  By  this  arrangement  a steady  flow  of  fresh  air, 
both  night  and  day,  is  secured  without  the  ill  effects  of  strong  draughts. 

Do  not  try  to  economize  by  using  one  flue  for  two  or  more 
rooms.  Good  results  are  only  secured  by  using  a set  of  flues  for  each 
room  or  hall.  I have  seen  ventilating  flues  built  to  open  through  the 
cornice.  That  is  a bad  plan,  for  even  a slight  wind  will  check  the 
draught  while  blowing  against  that  side.  If  the  flues  are  properly 
finished  after  passing  through  the  roof  the  wind  will  increase  the 
draught.  The  above  suggestions  answer  equally  as  well  for  frame 
houses.  It  is  easy  to  construct  wood  flues  between  the  weather- 
boarding and  lath. 


COOPER’S  CONDUCTOR  OR  LEADER  PIPE. 

The  object  of  this  invention  is  to  supply  the  builder  with  a con- 
ductor-pipe that  will  not  burst  after  freezing,  which  all  pipes  without 
provision  for  expansion  are  liable  when  water  is  frozen  solid  in  them. 
The  peculiarity  of  the  joint  lies  in  the  wedge  principle,  applied  in  a 
manner  which  forces  the  rim  of  the  inside  lap  hard  against  the 
overlapping  end  with  strength  sufficient  to  do  without  soldering  the 
joints.  Besides  this,  each  joint  is  provided  with  a fastening  which  pre- 
vents the  pipe  from  settling.  This  fastening  may  or  may  not  be  used, 
but  if  used  in  connection  with  the  ordinary  pipe  hook  (which  does  not 
prevent  the  pipe  from  settling)  makes  a very  superior  fastening. 

The  V-shaped  corrugation  prevents  bursting,  as  it  allows  the 
pipe  to  expand  when  frozen,  thus  preventing  its  bursting.  We  make 
two  sizes,  three  and  four  inches  in  diameter,  twenty-eight  inches 
long,  using  tin  plate,  which  we  galvanize  with  zinc  after  it  is  formed, 
making  a pipe  superior  to  any  galvanized  iron  pipe  of  equal  weight. 
We  make  the  same  not  galvanized,  but  painted  one  coat  inside  and 
out  with  linseed  oil  and  oxide  of  iron  paint. 


PRACTICAL  hints  TO  BUILDERS, 


COOPER’S 

CONDUCTOR  OR  LEADER  PIPE. 


AMPLE  PROVISION  FOR  EXPANSION, 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


58 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDKRS. 


59 


Second  Floor. 


Design  B. — {Elevations , page  58.) 


NAILS. 


STEEL  WIRE  BARBED  NAILS  are  superior  to  any  cut  nail 
made.  Are  lighter,  stronger  and  easier  to  drive.  Holding  firmer 
in  the  wood,  and  having  a larger  flat  head,  they  hold  the  tin  to  the 
roof  boards  much  better,  are  nearly  double  the  quantity  to  the 
pound,  and  therefore  fully  as  cheap. 


6o 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


DEADENING  AND  FIRE-PROOFING 
FLOORS. 


This  can  be  accomplished  in  a simple 
and  inexpensive  manner  by  nailing  strips 
xxi  Yz  inches  along  the  side  of  each  joist, 
the  top  edge  of  each  strip  to  be  two  inches 
below  the  top  surface  of  the  joist.  On 
top  of  these  strips  lay  a floor  of  rough  boards.  Second-hand  material 
answers  every  purpose  for  the  floor,  as  the  boards  need  not  be  matched 
or  of  even  thickness. 

On  the  top  of  this  rough  floor  spread  a covering  of  coarse 
mortar  gauged  level  with  the  top  edge  of  the  joist.  When  the  mortar 
is  dry  lay  the  floor  in  the  usual  manner.  It  takes  a long  time  for  fire 
to  burn  through  a floor  laid  in  this  manner,  and  sound  is  deadened 
completely  by  the  mass  of  non-conducting  mortar  and  the  double 
floors.  For  fire-proofing  and  deadening  partitions  in  an  effective 
way,  build  a four-inch  brick  wall  between  the  studding.  A nail 
driven  every  ten  or  twelve  inches  in  the  side  of  the  studding,  on  the 
line  of  the  mortar  joint,  will  hold  the  wall  firmly  between  the  stud- 
ding. Where  brick  is  scarce  or  expensive,  sun  dried  brick  made  from 
stiff  clay  is  a good  substitute.  They  can  be  made  12x12  inches,  and 
thick  enough  to  come  within  § of  an  inch  of  the  lathing.  The  mortar 
keys  impinging  against  the  wall  make  the  plastering  firmer  and  con- 
sequently stronger. 

The  expense  of  fire-proofing  and  deadening  in  this  manner  is  so 
small,  it  is  surprising  it  is  not  more  generally  adopted.  If  the  flooring 
is  laid  before  the  mortar  used  between  the  joists  is  dry,  it  will  cause 
the  boards  to  swell  and  may  bulge  them;  and  when  they  finally  be- 
come dry  will  leave  ugly  looking  cracks  where  they  join.  Remember, 
you  cannot  have  a well  built  house  without  giving  Nature  time  to  do 
her  work. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


6t 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  LAYING 
WALTER’S  PATENT  METALLIC  SHINGLES. 


Shows  manner  of  finishing  with  Climax  Ridge  Stop  Block 
and  Gable  End  Finish. 


Commence  at  the  low- 
er left-hand  corner.  In 
starting  be  particular 
to  see  that  you  start 
straight  with  the  eaves 
of  the  building.  To  do 
this  it  is  best  to  draw  a 
chalk  line  about  twelve 
inches  from  the  eaves  ; 
this  distance  leaves  two 
inches  to  project  from 
the  eaves, which  in  many 
cases  is  more  than  suf- 
ficient. If  you  use  our 
Gable  End  Finish  (Cut 
I)  it  saves  the  trouble  of 
fitting  the  shingles  to  the 


verge  board,  and  adds  to  the  appear- 
ance of  the  roof.  After  nailing  the 
Gable  End  Finish  to  its  place,  press 
the  left-hand  edge  of  the  first  shingle 
well  under  the  fold  of  the  Gable  End 
Finish,  and  before  nailing  it  hook  two 
or  three  shingles  with  the  top  edge  on 
a line  with  your  chalk  line;  then  re- 
move the  loose  shingles,  and  nail  the 
first  one  which  is  held  to  its  proper 
place  by  the  Gable  End  Finish.  By 
doing  this  in  starting  each  course  you 
are  sure  of  a straight  line  if  you  follow 
correctly  the  gauge  lines  at  the  top  of 
each  shingle. 


Shows  commencement  of  first  two  courses. 


62 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


If  your  roof  has  a pitch  of  six  inches  to  the  foot,  or  steeper,  let  the 
bottom  edge  of  the  shingle  rest  just  above  the  lower  gauge  line  on  the  top  of 
the  underlying  shingle,  as  shown  in  Cut  A.  But  if  the  pitch  of  the  roof  is 


less  than  six  inches  to  the  foot, 
let  the  shingle  entirely  cover  the 
lower  gauge  line,  as  shown  in 
Cut  B. 

We  advise  against  the  use 
of  our  shingles  on  roofs  of  less 
pitch  than  five  inches  to  the 
foot,  unless  the  lap  is  increased. 
As  a rule,  we  think  any  roof  that 
can  be  walked  over  with  safety 
r? 


is  too  flat  for  shingles  of  either  wood 
or  metal. 

Should  there  be  a gutter  formed 
in  the  roof  at  the  eave,  let  the  shingle 
rest  on  it  as  youwould  in 
using  the  ordinarywood 
shingle.  (Remember 
every  other  course  com- 
mences with  a half  shin- 
gle, as  shown  in  Cuts  A 

and  B.)  The  same  rules 
that  govern  the  laying 
of  slate  or  the  common 
wood  shingle  along  val- 
leys, or  about  chimneys 
and  dormer  windows, 
are  applicable  to  ours,  except  the  tin  shingles  are  bent  up  against  the 
sides  of  chimneys,  which  cannot  be  done  with  wood  or  slate.  When 


Cut  F. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


63 


our  shingles  turn  up  against  the  sides  of  chimneys  or  brick  walls,  in- 
sert flashing  by  sawing  out  the  mortar  joint  above  frhe  line  of  tin 
work;  where  the  upper  edge  of  our  shingles  butts  against  the  brick 
wall,  as  they  do  on  the  lower  side  of  chimneys,  cut  them  off  on  the 
line  where  the  chimney  comes  to  the  roof,  and  use  a strip  of  tin  bent 
in  this  manner.  (See  Cut  F.)  The  upper  end  at  A is  to  fit  in  mor- 
tar joint.  The  lower  edge,  B,  is  nailed  to  the  sheathing  before  the 
shingles  are  put  on.  The  upper  ends  of  shingles  are  then  to  be 
pressed  up  under  the  fold,  C.  Great  care  should  be  used  in  finishing 
about  chimneys  and  dormers,  the  details 
of  which  cannot  well  be  explained  to  suit 
each  case;  but  a workman  of  ordinary 
skill  can  suggest  the 
proper  manner  in  which 
the  work  should  be  done 
to  secure  thoroughly 
tight  work. 

It  is  much  easier  to 
secure  this  result  with 
the  use  of  our  shingles 
than  it  is  with  either 
wood  or  slate. 

Where  the  upper  end  of  shingle  butts 
against  the  side  of  a frame  house,  use 
the  same  means  as  on  the  lower  side  of 
chimneys,  only  let  there  be  no  bend  at  the  point  A,  as  shown  in  Cut 
F ; but  let  it  extend  an  inch  or  so  up  under  the  weather  boarding. 
Where  the  weather  boarding  is  vertical  there  is  no  way  of  making  tight 
work  but  to  put  the  tin  work,  as  before  described,  back  of  the  vertical 
weather  board. 

In  laying  the  valley,  cut  the  tin  so  it  extends  to  about  one-half 
inch  over  the  lock,  and  bend  it  under,  as  shown  in  Cut  D.  We  fur- 
nish to  each  customer  a small  pair  of  hand-tongs,  which  is  handy  to 
turn  this  edge  over  and  pinch  it  together  after  the  shingle  is  laid, 


Cut  D. 


64 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


The  Cut  D represents  the  shingles  laid  to  and  from  the  valley. 
In  starting  from  the  valley  it  is  best  to  hold  several  shingles  to- 
gether, or  tack  them  at  the  top,  then  with  a straight-edge  mark  and 
cut  where  they  overlap  the  valley;  and  with  the  hand-tongs  edge  and 
lock  them  to  the  valley,  as  shown  in  cut  D. 

Use  the  Hip  Coping  by  nailing  the  edges  to  the  roof  boards,  and 
press  the  shingle  up  under  the  folds  on  each  side  after  they  are  cut 
to  suit  the  angle  of  the  hip.  (See  Cut  E.) 

As  plain  as  this  appears,  we  have  known  men  to  nail  the  Hip 
Coping  through  the  folds  and  on  the  top  of  the  shingles.  We  are, 
therefore,  particular  to 
say  wherever  this  Hip, 
or  our  Plain  Ridge  Co- 
ping (which  is  the  same 
thing)  is  used  it  should 
be  nailed  to  the  roof 
boards  before  the  shin- 
gles are  put  on.  The 
fold  is  made  expressly 
to  receive  the  edge  of 
the  shingles.  Cut  E 
shows  this  coping  and 
the  manner  of  apply- 
ing it. 

We  desire  to  impress  upon  our  customers,  who  live  in  the  North- 
ern States,  where  blizzards  and  severe  snow  storms  are  frequent, 
the  necessity  of  using  close  sheathing,  and  if  the  sheathing  is  not 

close,  the  use  of  sheathing  paper,  to  be  laid  underneath  the  shingles ; it  adds 

greatly  to  the  warmth  of  the  house  in  winter,  and  prevents  small  par- 
ticles of  snow  from  entering,  it  costs  but  little,  and  should  always  be 
used  under  wood,  slate  or  tin  shingles  where  the  best  protection  is 
desired. 


DO  NOT  Hammer  Down  the  Joints  or  Lock. 


practical  hints  to  builders, 


65 


PAINTING  DEPARTMENT] 


66 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


PAINTING. 


After  the  mason,  bricklayer,  carpenter,  tinsmith  and  plasterer 
comes  the  painter.  At  this  stage  of  progress  in  the  work,  the  owner 
usually  thinks  of  moving  in;  in  fact,  he  thinks  he  should  have  been 
living  in  his  new  house  several  weeks  ago. 

If  weather  conditions  have  been  good,  the  representatives  of 
other  branches  of  house  building  have  got  along  smoothly  excepting 
a little  shaking  up  now  and  then,  caused  mostly  by  the  men  occasion- 
ally yielding  to  the  seductive  influences  of  Old  John  Barleycorn  or 
his  rival  King  Growler.  The  owner,  having  previously  engaged  or 
contracted  for  inside  painting,  now  calls  on  the  painter.  The  man 
of  colors  and  brushes  is  always  ready  to  promise  quick  work  (and 
we  are  free  to  say  the  mysteries  of  his  trade  are  equal  to  any  reason- 
able emergency),  and  is  apt  to  humor  his  employer’s  impatience,  and 
meekly  submits  to  his  wishes  knowing  that  his  employer’s  hurry  is 
his  gain.  House-builder,  did  it  ever  occur  to  you  that  first-class 
inside  painting  is  a slow  process?  Think  of  this;  after  the  first 
coat  is  laid,  it  should  stand  long  enough  to  become  thoroughly  dry, 
dry  enough  to  be  sand-papered.  The  second  coat  should  be  a little 
heavier  than  the  first  or  priming  coat.  It  does  not  dry  as  fast  as  the 
first.  (We  are  speaking  of  good  materials  properly  proportioned.) 
Each  coat  must  be  thoroughly  dry  before  it  is  sand-papered.  Any 
kind  of  good  work  requires  three  coats.  Extra  good  work — four, 
besides  varnishing. 


practical  hints  to  builders. 


67 


If  you  succeed  in  doing  this  work  inside  of  four  weeks  you  are 
fortunate.  Thus  you  see  it  requires  time  to  do  good  work.  Time 
for  the  men  to  do  theirs,  and  time  for  Nature  to  do  hers.  Sometimes 
Nature  frowns  and  lowers  a curtain  of  humidity  for  days  at  a time, 
which  prevents  the  oils  from  drying.  It  is  possible  for  your  painter 
to  finish  all  four  coats  in  as  many  days;  but  if  he  is  honest  and  you 
have  not  hurried  him  unreasonably,  his  conscience  will  suffer.  Good 
painting,  like  other  good  things,  is  durable,  looks  well,  and  is  the 
cheapest  in  the  end. 

Good  painters  pride  themselves  on  doing  good  work.  So  if  you 
desire  first-class  work,  you  should  give  the  painter  a reasonable  price, 
and  sufficient  time  in  which  to  do  the  work  properly. 

There  is  doubtless  more  adulteration  in  paint  than  in  any 
materials  used  in  house-finishing.  So  general  is  this  the  case  that  it 
is  often  difficult  to  get  pure  materials.  This  is  caused  by  the  low 
price  of  the  products  of  petroleum,  the  earth  materials  used  to  adulter- 
ate mineral  paints,  and  the  demand  for  cheap  work. 


ATTENTION,  ROOFERS! 


Our  Broad  Rib  Roofing  and  Steel  Plate  Shingles  are  not 
protected  with  a coat  of  richer  metal  like  those  made  of  tin  or  terne 
plate,  and  consequently  their  durability  depends  upoti  the  paint  with 
which  they  should  be  covered. 

For  this  purpose  nothing,  so  far  as  we  know,  is  equal  to  a mix- 
ture of  pure  unboiled  linseed  oil  and  the  oxide  of  iron.  The  Shingles 
should  have  two  coats , one  before  they  are  put  on,  on  both  sides 
(this  we  do),  the  other  immediately  after  they  are  laid.  This  last 
coat  should  be  repeated  every  four  or  five  years. 

Remember,  it  is  the  rust-preventing  qualities  of  linseed  oil,  com- 
bined with  the  oxide  of  iron,  that  makes  steel  or  iron  sheets  resist  the 
corrosive  action  of  oxygen,  which  is  ever  present  in  the  atmosphere. 
(See  page  101.) 


68 


practical  hints  to  builders. 


A PERFECT  ROOF. 


The  best  can  only  be  obtained  by  using  good  materials,  worked 

into  the  best  form  that  theory  and  experience  can  suggest. 

WALTER’S  PATENT  “STANDARD”  and 

COOPER'S  PATENT  “QUEEN  ANNE” 

METALLIC  SHINGLES  AND  SIDING, 

made  from  Tin  Plate,  Steel  Plate,  Galvanized  Tin  Plate,  Bronze 

Metal,  and  Copper,  are  unrivaled  for  roof  covering. 

Because  they  have  a perfect  lock,  using  no  cleats,  springs  or  exposed 
seams. 

Because  they  have  no  exposed  fastenings;  all  nail  heads  are  cov- 
ered as  perfectly  as  those  used  for  wood  shingles. 

Because  they  can  be  applied  without  the  necessity  of  soldering,  and 
with  no  other  tools  than  a hammer,  a small  pair  of  hand-tongs 
and  tin  shears. 

Because  they  break  joints  by  starting  each  alternate  course  with  a 
half  shingle,  thus  bringing  the  centre  of  the  bottom  of  each 
shingle  astraddle  of  the  locked  shingle  below,  securely  binding 
the  same  and  preventing  rattling. 

Because  they  are  easily  and  rapidly  put  on,  requiring  no  odd  pieces 
at  the  eaves,  gables  or  comb. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


69 


Because  they  lessen  the  expense  of  insurance,  which  extends  not 
only  to  the  building  but  to  furniture  and  goods  contained 
therein. 

Because  they  do  not  crack,  split,  warp,  fall  off,  rust  or  burn. 

* 

Because  there  are  no  cross  seams  or  joints  where  rain  or  moisture 
can  settle  and  cause  decay. 

Because  we  furnish  with  our  shingles,  at  moderate  cost,  Valleys, 
Gable  Strips,  Ridge  and  Hip  Coping,  that  not  only  improves  the 
finish  of  exterior,  but  assists  the  workman  to  an  extent  that  les- 
sens the  cost  of  applying. 

Manufactured  by 

THE  NATIONAL  SHEET  METAL  ROOFING  CO., 

510  to  520  East  20th  Street,  New  York  City, 

and  for  sale  by  Dealers  in  all  the  principal  cities  of  the  United  States 
and  Canada. 


From  BARTLETT  HARDWARE  CO., 

Freeport,  111.,  January  10th,  1888. 


The  National  Sheet  Metal  Roofing  Co., 

New  York  City. 

Dear  Sirs: — I send  you  photo,  of  my  house  that  you  may  see  how  hand- 
some a Roof  the  7 x 10  Shingles  make.  You  thought  the  10  x 14  would  have 
been  better,  but  this  is  the  finest  roof  in  this  country,  and  we  expect  to  sell 
some  the  present  year.  Everybody  admires  it.  Please  quote  for  the  coming 
season’s  trade. 

Very  respectfullv, 

F.  BARTLETT,  President. 


76 


PRACTICAL  rilMTS  TO  BtJiLDgftS. 


WHAT  OUR  GOODS  ARE. 


In  offering  our  goods  to  the  public,  we  desire  to  say,  briefly, 
that  the  Walter's  Patent  Metallic  Shingles  and  Siding  Plates  have 
now  been  before  this  country  for  nearly  eight  years,  upwards  of  twelve 
thousand  buildings  have  been  covered  with  them  in  .the  United 
States  and  Canada,  and  we  feel  warranted  in  referring  to  the  owners 
of  every  building  so  covered. 

Our  shingles  have  a concealed  nailing  flange  the  entire  length 
of  the  shingle  on  one  side,  and  a perfect  lock  with  a concealed  gut- 
ter at  the  side  of  the  nailing  flange  that  provides  for  expansioti  and 
contraction , with  sufficient  ventilation  to  prevent  sweating  on  the 
under-side,  (causing  rust,)  so  common  in  the  cross  seams  of  flat  lock 
and  standing  seam,  now  in  use. 

Our  Galvanized  (Re-dipped)  Shingle  is  our  Standard  Tin 
Shingle  galvanized;  and,  as  every  square  has  twenty  pounds  of 
zinc  coating,  in  addition  to  the  first  coat  of  tin,  it  will  be  seen  why 
it  is  superior  to  any  galvanized  iron  made. 

Our  “ Old  Process  ” prices  are  designed  to  cover  such  grades  of 
double-coated  plates  as  “Old  Style,”  “ M.F.,”  “Phelp’s  Triple  Plate,” 
“ Gilbertson’s  Old  Method,”  and  “Tregoning  Old  Process,”  all  su- 
perior to  the  Standard  Grades,  and  higher  in  price.  We  quote  all  but 
Galvanized,  painted  both  sides.  If  any  size  or  kind  is  ordered  un- 
painted, the  price  will  be  25  cents  per  square  less. 

Our  Steel  Plate  Shingles  are  made  from  sheets  of  Bessemer  steel 
rolled  as  smooth  as  tin  plate,  they  are  painted  the  same  as  the  Stan- 
dard Shingles,  and  when  laid  on  a roof  cannot  be  distinguished  from 
them.  They  should  be  painted  every  five  years  with  pure  linseed  oil 
and  oxide  of  iron  (brown  mineral).  They  will  not  bear  neglect;  in 
this  respect  they  differ  from  shingles  made  from  tin  plate.  The  price 
is  somewhat  less,  but  the  greater  durability  of  the  Tin  Shingles  is 
worth  more  than  the  difference  in  price. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


71 


We  make  our  shingles  in  four  sizes:  The  smallest,  7 x 10,  (show- 
ing an  exposed  surface,  after  laid,  of  5 x 9 inches,)  is  designed  for 
Mansards,  Spires,  Siding,  and  other  upright  work.  The  10  x 14,  (ex- 
posed surface,  8%  x inches,)  is  the  popular  size;  and  while  it 
works  to  the  best  advantage  on  complicated  roofs,  it  is  equally  good 
for  plain  ones.  The  14  x 20,  (exposed  surface,  12  x 17}^  inches,)  is 
used  largely  on  the  plainer  roofs,  where  a saving  in  price  and  labor 
of  putting  on  is  an  item.  The  20  x 28,  (exposed  surface,  17^  x 25^ 
inches,)  is  made  from  heavier  metal,  and  is  designed  for  warehouses, 
and  other  large  surfaces;  and  any  of  the  larger  shingles  can  be  used 
for  siding  equally  as  well. 

We  are  prepared  to  make  any  of  the  above  sizes  from  any  spe- 
cial brand  of  tin  plate  in  the  market,  but  for  our  Standard  goods, 
which  we  carry  in  stock,  we  use  a first-class  grade  of  roofing  tin 
plate,  warranted  perfect. 


SAMPLES. 


We  will  send  free,  and  charges  paid,  samples  of  our  Walter’s 
Patent  Shingles  (three  pieces)  to  any  address  in  the  United  States 
on  receipt  of  five  two-cent  stamps;  this  does  not  pay  us  one-half  the 
expense,  but  we  propose  to  make  the  cost  as  light  as  possible  to  those 
interested  in  building. 

THE  NATIONAL  SHEET  METAL  ROOFING  CO., 

510  to  520  East  20th  Street, 

New  Yoik  City. 


72 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


BROAD  RIB  ROOFING, 


Like  Our  Shingles,  has 
a nailing  flange  the  entire 
length  of  each  sheet.  It 
forms  a Continuous  Rib 
when  applied  from  eaves 
to  comb  with  cross  seams 
twenty-five  inches  apart, 
which  gives  it  strength  and 
rigidity  notfound  in  roofing 
where  longer  sheets  are 
used.  It  has  no  protrud- 
ing anchors,  cleats  or  riv- 
ets; all  nail  heads  are  cov- 
ered as  perfectly  as  those 
used  for  wood  shingles. 
There  is  no  waste  in  us- 
ing, either  at  comb  or  eaves. 
The  Side  Nailing  Flange 
admits  of  the  roof  being 
fastened  to  roof  boards 
with  any  required  degree 

of  strength.  The  Cross 

Seams  are  formed  with  a folded  lock  which  allows  for  contraction  and  expansion. 
Material. — Each  sheet  of  this  roofing  is  made  from  Best  Roofing  Tin,  or  Im- 
ported Siemen’s  Sheet  Steel,  which  is  hard  rolled,  tough,  durable  and  thoroughly 
coated  on  both  sides  with  the  best  Oxide  of  Iron  and  Linseed  Oil  Paint.  The 
size  of  sheets  are  20x28  inches.  Tools. — We  send  with  each  order  one  pair  of 
Metal  Shears,  one  Mallet,  and  a Draw  Tool,  for  which  we  make  a charge  of  two 
dollars.  These  tools  can  be  returned  to  us  by  express  at  our  expense,  and  the 
purchaser  credited,  or  the  money  paid  for  them  returned.  Important  Im- 
provements in  the  manufacture  of  Steel  Sheets  enable  us  to  put  this  on  the 
market  at  the  same  price  as  Sheet  Iron  Roofing,  to  which  it  is  greatly  superior. 
The  Rib  is  formed  of  the  Walter’s  Patent  Lock,  and  is  the  same  we  have 

used  on  our  shingles  for  the  last 
seven  years.  This  Lock  has  been 
thoroughly  tested,  and  it  is  signifi- 
cant that  over  25,000,000  square 
feet  of  shingles  constructed  upon 
this  plan  are  already  in  use  in  the 
United  States  and  Canada.  The 
application  of  this  Lock  does  away 
with  a very  large  proportion  of  the 
work  necessary  in  laying  standing 
seam  roofs  as  ordinarily  applied, 
such  as  tonging  up  the  seams,  double  seaming,  capping  or  riveting  the  ribs,  and 
making  and  using  cleats  or  other  fastenings.  This  roofing  costs  no  more  than 
wood  shingles  in  sections  where  good  timber  is  scarce.  Each  sheet  is  made 
from  plates  20x28  inches.  WRITE  FOR  PRICES. 

The  National  Sheet  Metal  Roofing  Co.,  510-520  E.  20th  St.,  N.  Y.  City. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


73 


THE  “ATTIC”  SKY-LIGHT  AND 
VENTILATOR. 

This  is  a novelty  in 
roof  ventilation,  and  pos- 
sesses the  advantage  of 
admitting  light  as  well  as 
ventilating  rooms  in  the 
garret  or  immediately  un- 
der the  roof. 

It  can  be  used  on  any  kind  of  a slope  roof  having  a pitch  of 
three  inches  or  more  to  the  foot.  The  front  is  of  double  strength 
glass  which  is  held  to  its  place  by  a single  catch.  When  used  as  a 
ventilator  the  glass  is  drawn  back  to  the  slant  of  the  roof,  and  sheds 
what  water  would  enter  the  opening  during  a rain  storm.  All  the 
carpenter  work  necessary  in  setting  the  “Attic  ” is  to  saw  a square 
hole  through  the  roof  boards  at  the  time  of  putting  on  the  roof- 
covering. We  make  them  to  form  one  plate  of  our  Broad  Rib  Roof- 
ing with  which  it  interlocks.  As  shown  on  page  55,  they  can  be 
used  equally  as  well  on  roofs  to  be  covered  with  slate  or  wood 
shingles  as  with  our  Tin  Shingles. 


HOW  TO  SET  A FINIAL. 


Bore  a hole  in  the  upper  end  of  the 
centre-staff  and  insert  in  it  the  lower  end  of 
finial  rod;  when  the  centre-staff  is  put  to 
its  place,  plumb  the  finial  rod  by  moving 
the  lower  end  of  the  centre-staff  before  it 
is  nailed  to  the  floor  or  cross  timbers.  (See 
page  74.) 


74 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


No.  I.  No.  2.  No.  3. 


NET  PRICES:  5 Foot.  .$12  00.  6 Foot.  .$14.40.  7 Foot.  .$16.80. 

For  either  Round,  Square  or  Octagon. 

No.  1 includes  all  above  the  Shingles.  (See  page  73.) 

There  is  110  shoddy  work  about  these  Finials,  They  are  heavy, 
substantially  made  and  zinc  coated. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS, 


75 


76 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


(Patented  August  20th,  1S89.) 

Complete  and  in  Sections.  Fixed  and  Adjustable. 

The  most  Perfect  Machine-made  Elbow  ever  manufactured. 

First-class  Finish. — Each  piece  is  a perfect  section  of  a curved 
tube. 

A Convenience. — The  sections  can  be  put  together  to  form  any 
angle. 

Durable  and  Strong. — The  finished  elbows  are  redipped  after 
being  locked  and  riveted. 

Quality. — Both  Retinned  and  Galvanized. 

Perfect  in  fitting,  uniform  in  size  and  quality.  Just  what  the 

practical  tinsmith  should  use  for  conductors  and  vent  pipes. 


ADJUSTABLE. 


Size.  Tin.  Galv’d. 

3 inch $i-55  $2  oo 

4 inch 2.80  3 90 


FIXED. 


Size.  Tin.  Galv’d. 

3 inch $2.00  $2.00 

4 inch. 3.90  3.90 


IN  SECTIONS. 

Size.  Tin. 

3 inch $1-45 

4 inch 2.50 


Discount 


MANUFACTURED  ONLY  BY 

THE  NATIONAL  SHEET  METAL  ROOFING  CO. 
510  to  520  East  20th  Street,  New  York. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS.  77 

WEIGHTS. 


Our  goods  weigh,  when  boxed  ready  for  shipment,  as  follows: 

14x20,  No.  r,  Standard 84  lbs. 

10  x 14,  “ " 92  “ 

7 x 10,  “ “ 89  “ 

14x20,  No.  2,  Steel 83  “ 

10  x 14,  “ “ 89  “ 

14x20,  No.  3,  M.  F 100  “ 

10x14,  “ “ 108  “ 

7x10.  “ “ 108  “ 

14x20,  No.  4,  Galvanized 104)4  “ 

10  x 14,  “ “ 109)4  “ 

7 x 10,  “ “ rog  )4  “ 

Queen  Anne,  No.  6,  Standard 121)4  “ 

“ “ “ Galvanized 144  “ 

Broad  Rib,  No.  8,  Standard 88  “ 

•'  “ “ Steel 87  “ 

50  ft.  Climax  Ridge  Coping,  Tin 56)4  “ 

50  ft.  “ “ “ Galvanized 71  “ 

50  ft.  Hip,  Tin 38  “ 

50  ft.  “ Galvanized .• 43  “ 

50  ft.  Valley,  Tin 45)4  “ 

50  ft.  “ Galvanized 53  “ 

50  ft.  Gable,  Tin \ 12)4  “ 

50  ft.  “ Galvanized 15)4  “ 


78 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


HOW  METAL  SHINGLES  ARE  MADE. 


Shingles  made  from  wood  have  been  common  all  over  the  world 
for  ages.  Their  particular  form  has  remained  unchanged  because 
many  years’  experience  has  proven  it  to  be  the  most  durable,  and  surest 
safe-guard  against  storms.  What  is  true  of  wood  for  roof  covering  is 
equally  true  of  metal  for  the  same  purpose.  The  first  metal  roofing 
made  in  America  was  tin  sheets,  laid  shingle  fashion,  the  overlapped 
edges  of  which  covered  the  nail  heads  which  were  used  to  fasten 
them  to  the  roof  boards.  Many  of  these  old-fashioned  metal  (tin 
plate)  roofs  are  yet  in  existence  that  were  covered  over  one  hundred 
years  ago.  The  writer  covered  several  houses  in  1849  in  this  manner, 
which  are  in  good  condition  now.  The  reason  why  this  style  of  metal 
roofing  was  not  common  was  its  expense. " On  page  16  we  give 
reasons  why  it  would  be  more  durable  than  the  ordinary  mode  of 
laying  tin  roofing. 

The  use  of  Walter’s  and  Cooper’s  patent  in  constructing  metal 
shingles  does  away  with  the  expense,  which  was  a great  drawback  to 
their  use,  and  leaves  no  excuse  for  the  use  of  cheap,  combustible 
material. 

The  National  Sheet  Metal  Roofing  Co.,  of  New  York  City,  have 
for  the  past  eight  years  been  manufacturing  these  shingles,  and  their 
use  on  a vast  number  of  public  and  private  buildings  in  all  parts  of 
the  United  States  and  Canada  attest  their  superiority.  Thinking 
that  our  readers  would  be  pleased  to  see  the  process  of  making 
these  shingles,  we  illustrate  on  pages  65  and  75  views  taken  from 
photographs  of  their  paint  and  store  room.  The  process  requires 
two  press  operations  for  each  shingle,  and  each  press  averages  a 
turn  out  of  4,000  square  feet  (which  is  40  squares)  per  day.  The 
dies  which  give  shape  and  form  the  corrugations  of  the  shingles 
are  faced  with  polished  steel,  which  leaves  no  abrasions  where  they 


Practical  hints  to  builders. 


79 

Come  in  contact  with  the  metal.  During  the  past  year  they  have 
added'four  new  presses  to  this  department  to  meet  the  requirements 
of  the  increased  demand  for  their  goods.  They  spare  no  pains  to 
make  their  shingles  as  perfect  as  the  best  machinery  can  make  them. 
All  their  shingles  are  carefully  inspected  before  they  are  boxed  and 
sent  to  the  store  room,  from  which  they  are  shipped  to  all  parts  of 
the  country.  The  machinery  room  in  which  the  presses  are  located 
is  37  feet  wide  by  80  feet  long,  the  painting  department  is  80x55 
feet,  and  the  store  room  the  same  size.  We  give  these  figures  that 
you  may  form  an  opinion  of  the  space  required  to  manufacture  and 
handle  their  goods. 

The  process  of  painting  is  first  dipping  the  shingles  in  a vat  of 
pure  linseed  oil  and  oxide  of  iron  paint  with  just  enough  turpentine 
to  assist  in  drying.  They  are  then  set  on  edge  and  left  to  drain, 
after  which  they  are  gone  over  with  a brush  and  set  in  racks  to  dry, 
which  requires  several  days,  according  to  the  humidity  of  the  atmos- 
phere. They  are  all  air  dried,  no  artificial  heat  being  used.  Their 
customers  are  cordially  invited  to  call  at  any  time  and  see  the  pro- 
cess of  manufacturing.  ‘ 


“ Why  don’t  you  mend  your  roof  my  man?” 
He  drew  him  closer  to  the  wall, 

And  answered  with  a lazy  drawl: 

“ When ’t  rains  so  hard  I never  can.” 

“ Why  don't  you  mend  it  when  it’s  fair?” 

“ Oh,  then  it  doesn’t  need  repair!  ’’ 

He  blandly  said 
As  he  turned  his  head 
And  shook  the  raindrops  from  his  hair. 


From  The  Metal  Worker. 


go 


PRACTICAL  hints  TO  BUILDERS. 


Walter's  Patent  Standard  Shingles. 


Cooper's  Patent  Queen  Anne  Metallic  Shingles. 


PUBLIC  BUILDINGS  ON  WHICH  THE 
ABOVE  METAL  SHINGLES  ARE  USED. 


RELIGIOUS  INSTITUTIONS. 

Independent  Pres.  Church,  Savannah, 
• Ga. 

South-West  Pres.  Church,  Omaha,  Neb. 

Methodist  Church,  Stony  Point,  N.  T. 

Methodist  Church,  Graniteville,  Conn. 

Methodist  Church,  Broad  River,  Conn. 

Asbury  Methodist  Church,  Providence, 
R.  I. 

Second  Methodist  Church,  Kingston, 
N.  T. 

Pisgah  Methodist  Church,  Pisgah,  Md. 

Methodist  Church,  Thomasville,  Ga. 

Elm  St.  Methodist  Church,  Nashville, 
Tenn. 

East  Nashville  Methodist  Church,  Nash- 
ville, Tenn. 

Methodist  Church,  Manheim,  Pa. 

Roman  Catholic  Church,  Trinidad,  Col. 

Roman  Catholic  Church,  Albuquerque, 
New  Mexico, 


German  Evangelical  Church,  New  Har- 
mony, Ind. 

Holy  Apostles’  P.  E.  Church,  St.  Clair,  Pa. 

R.  C.  Church  of  St.  Cecelia,  N.  T.  City. 

R.  C.  Apostohc  Church,  Toronto,  Ont 

St.  Patrick’s  R.  C.  Cathedral,  Ottawa, 
Canada. 

Baptist  Church,  Tura,  India. 

Winthrop  St.  Baptist  Church,  Taunton, 
Mass. 

Second  Baptist  Church,  Lawrence,  Mass. 

Berkeley  Ave.  Bap.  Church,  Berkeley, Ya. 

Baptist  Church,  Danbury,  Conn. 

Colored  Baptist  Church,  Augusta,  Ga. 

Christ  Episcopal  Church,  Richmond,  Ya. 

St.  John’s  Epis.  Church,  Richmond,  Ya. 

Christ  Episcopal  Church,  Port  Tobacco, 
Md. 

St.  Clement’s  Episcopal  Church,  Chicago, 

III 


practical  Hints  to  builders. 


Mission  Church,  Aintab,  Turkey. 

Mission  Church,  Kiota,  Japan. 

Bethany  Chapel,  Troy,  N.  Y. 

Colonial  Beach  Chapel,  Va. 

Plymouth  Church,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

M.  E.  Church,  McMinville,  Tenn. 

First  M.  E.  Church,  Jackson,  Mich. 
Christian  Church,  Little  Rock,  Ark. 
Second  Baptist  Church,  Little  Rock,  Ark. 
First  Pres.  Church,  Gainesville,  Fla. 

M.  E.  Church,  Beatrice,  Neb. 

Round  Hill  Church,  Va. 

St.  Paul  Lutheran  Church,  Lititz,  Pa. 
Salvation  Army  Barracks,  South  Nor- 
walk, Conn. 

Methodist  Church,  Salt  Lake  City. 
Christian  Church,  Belton,  Texas. 
Salvation  Army  Barracks,  Matteawan, 
N.  Y. 

First  Cong.  Church,  Daytona,  Fla. 
Jewish  Synagogue,  Brunswick,  Ga. 


RAILROADS. 

Savannah,  Florida  and  Western  R.  R. 
North-Eastern  R.  R.  of  South  Carolina. 
Western  and  North  Carolina  R.  R. 

New  York,  Susquehanna  and  Western 
R.  R. 

Chesapeake  and  Ohio  R.  R. 

Florida  Railway  & Navigation  Company. 
South  Florida  Railway. 

Virginia  Midland  Railway. 

Richmond  and  Danville  R.  R. 

Newport  News  and  Mississippi  Valley 
R.  R. 

Chicago  and  Evanston  R.  R. 
Jacksonville,  Tampa  and  Key  West  R.  R. 
Interstate  Rapid  Transit  Co.,  Kansas 
City,  Mo. 

Kansas  City  Cable  Railway,  Kansas 

City,  $to. 


8l 

Union  Passenger  Railroad  Co.,  Richmond, 
Va. 

Franklin  Avenue  Line,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 
West  Nashville  Railroad  Depot,  West 
Nashville,  Tenn. 

St.  Johns  and  Halifax  R.  R. 

Maryland  Central  R.  R. 

Cornwall  and  Lebanon  R.  R.  Co. 


EDUCATIONAL  INSTITUTIONS. 

DePaw  College,  Greencastle,  Ind. 
Mississippi  Industrial  Institute  and  Col- 
lege, Columbus,  Miss. 

St.  John’s  College,  Tremont,  N.  Y. 

Las  Vegas  College,  Las  Vegas,  New 
- Mexico. 

Loyola  College,  Collington,  Md. 
Woodstock  College,  Woodstock,  Md. 
Medical  College,  Nashville,  Tenn. 

Dayel  College,  Sparta,  Tenn. 

Dakota  University,  Mitchell,  Dakota. 
Public  School,  Richfield  Springs,  N.  Y. 
Public  School,  Greenville,  Ky- 
Public  School,  McCook,  Neb. 

Public  School,  Dodge  City,  Kansas. 
Public  School,  Marion,  111. 

Public  School,  Elizabeth,  Pa. 

Public  School,  Freeport,  111. 

Public  School,  Paw  Paw,  111. 

Public  School,  Hutchinson,  Minn. 
Thirteenth  District  School,  Nashville, 
Tenn.  , 

Tenth  District  School,  Nashville,  Ter.n. 
Thirteenth  Ward  Grammar  School,  Nash- 
ville, Tenn. 

Fogg  High  School,  Nashville,  Tenn. 
Caldwell  High  School,  Nashville,  Tenn. 
Tampa  High  School,  Tampa,  Fla. 

Public  School,  Forward  Township,  Alle- 
ghany Co.,  Pa. 

Tarbox  School,  Nashville,  Tenn. 

Searight  School,  Nashville,  Tenn. 
Niagara  Falls  Museum,  Niag.  Falls,  N.Y, 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


82 


Hotels  and  State  and  County 
Buildings. 

Florida  State  Capitol,  Tallahassee,  Fla. 

Washtenaw  County  Jail,  Ann  Arbor, 
Mich. 

Bristol  County  House  of  Correction,  New 
Bedford,  Mass. 

Government  Penitentiary,  Kingston,  Ont. 

Main  Street  Central  Police  Station, 
Charleston,  S.  C. 

United  States  Soldiers’  Home,  Leaven- 
worth, Kansas. 

Wm.  Houston  Home,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

Deaf  and  Dumb  Institute,  Jacksonville, 

111. 

Insane  Asylum,  Fort  Steilacoom,  Wash. 
Terr. 

United  States  Marine  Barracks,  Pensa- 
cola, Fla. 

Colorado  State  Insane  Asylum,  Pueblo, 
Col. 

Asylum  for  Feeble  Minded,  Beatrice,  Neb. 

Tenn.  Insane  Asylum,  Nashville,  Tenn. 

County  Asylum,  Sparta,  Tenn. 

City  Hospital,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

Towers  of  Minneapolis  Exhibition  Build- 
ing, Minneapolis,  Minn. 

Horticultural  Hall,  World’s  Exposition, 
New  Orleans,  La. 

Plymount  County  Agricultural  Society 
Building,  Brockton,  Mass. 

Public  Library,  Coldwater,  Mich. 

Fair  Association  Buildings,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

Grand  Army  of  the  Republic  Hall,  Janes- 
ville, Iowa. 

Caledonian  Rink,  Ottawa,  Canada. 

Park  Building,  West  Nashville,  Tenn. 

Concordia  Association  Building,  Little 
Rock,  Ark. 

U.  S.  Commissioners'  Building,  Salt  Lake 
City,  Utah. 

Board  of  Trade  Bldg.,  Little  Rock,  Ark. 

Exchange  Building, West  Nashville, Tenn. 

Lyons  Water  Works  Buildings,  Lyons, 
JL  Y. 


Water  Works  Buildings,  Battle  Creek, 
Mich. 

City  Water  Works  Buildings,  Ottawa, 
Canada. 

Barclay  St.  Ferry  House,  New  York  City. 
Oakland  Mills,  Taunton,  Mass. 

I.  0.  0.  F.  Building,  Port  Clinton,  Ohio. 
I.  0.  0.  F.  Building,  Savannah,  Ga. 
Masonic  Temple,  Savannah,  Ga. 

Masonic  Temple,  Daytona,  Fla 
Union  County  Court  House,  Union,  S.  C. 
Ford  County  Court  House,  Dodge  City, 
Kansas. 

Ontonogan  County  Building,  Houghton, 
Mich. 

Court  House,  Jonesborough,  Ark. 
Hamilton  County  Court  House,  Texas. 
Menard  County  Court  House,  Texas. 

H.  I.  Kimball  Hotel,  Atlanta,  Ga. 
Burlington  Hotel,  Burlington,  Vermont 
Fayetteville  Hotel,  Fayetteville,  N.  C. 
Mitchell  Hotel,  Thomasville,  Ga. 
Arlington  Hotel,  Augusta,  Ga. 
Summerville  Hotel,  Augusta,  Ga. 

Cottage  Hotel,  Nunda,  N.  Y. 

City  Hotel,  Beatrice,  Neb. 

Opera  House,  Junction  City,  Kansas. 
Grand  Opera  House,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 
Overland  Casino,  Nashville,  Tenn. 

Opera  House,  Tavares,  Fla. 

North  River  Steamboat  Co.,  Haverstraw, 
N.  Y. 

New  Central  Station,  Charleston,  S.  C. 
Lower  Station  House  Stables,  Charleston, 
S.  C. 

Mechanics'  Union  Hall,  No.  1,  Charles- 
ton, S.  C. 

Oneida  County  Asylum,  Rome,  N.  Y. 
Wheeler  Elevator,  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

Ontario  Elevator,  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

A.  W.  Stevens  A.  Son,  Auburn,  N.  Y. 
City  Buildings,  Taunton,  Mass. 

I.  0.  U.  W.  Hall,  New  Harmony,  Ind. 
Opera  House,  New  Harmony,  Ind. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


83 


INSIDE  CONSTRUCTION. 


By  this  we  do  not  mean  the  arrangement  or  size  of  rooms,  they 
may  be  large  or  very  small,  and  in  either  instance  lack  the  conven- 
iences which  may  always  be  provided  for  by  good  construction.  Even 
a small  house  can  have  transoms  over  all  the  doors  which  open  into 
a hall,  proper  ventilating  flues  for  all  rooms,  and  a kitchen  that  will 
be  comfortable  in  all  seasons,  (see  articles  under  the  head  of  “Ventila- 
tion” and  “The  Kitchen.")  These  are  essential;  all  dwellings,  large  or 
small,  should  have  them.  The  windows  and  doors  should  be  arranged 
to  suit  the  furniture  to  be  used.  You  have  doubtless  seen  rooms  with 
windows  on  two  sides,  a door  and  fire-place  on  the  other.  This 
arrangement  makes  it  impossible  for  the  room  to  contain  an  ordinary 
size  bedstead,  without  placing  it  before  a window  or  some  other 
opening.  Study  these  things  when  getting  up  plans  for  your  house. 

The  dining  room  should  be  light  and  roomy,  fronting  the  East 
if  possible,  as  the  morning  sun  is  always  desirable,  and  adds  much 
to  the  cheerfulness  of  the  family.  The  kitchen  should  not  connect 
directly  with  the  dining-room.  Construct  a passage-way,  well  ventila- 
ted, between  the  two  rooms;  this  will  prevent  unsavory  odors  enter- 
ing the  dining-room.  The  space  at  each  end  of  the  passage  can  be 
utilized  for  the  kitchen  closets.  Arrange  your  rooms  so  that  you 
will  not  be  compelled  to  pass  through  one  room  to  get  to  another. 
Do  not  disfigure  the  walls  by  driving  nails  or  hooks  into  the  plaster- 
ing for  the  purpose  of  hanging  pictures,  but  fasten  a neat  gilt  mould- 
ing to  the  side  walls  all  around  the  room,  about  one  foot  from  the 
ceiling.  The  moulding  should  be  about  one  and  one-half  or  two 
inches  wide,  with  a groove  on  its  upper  side.  Hooks  shaped  as  an  S 
can  be  placed  at  any  point  on  this  moulding,  and  the  pictures  are  to 
be  hung  to  these  hooks.  This  arrangement  is  somewhat  expensive, 
but  it  is  the  only  proper  way  in  which  pictures  can  be  hung. 


84 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


Closets. — No  house  is  complete  without  ample  closets.  Every 
lady  knows  that  clothing  and  wraps  cannot  be  stored  away  in  drawers, 
and  look  well  when  wanted  for  use.  As  closets  are  expensive  we 
suggest  for  small  houses,  that  a room  be  constructed  from  four  to  six 
feet  wide,  and  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  long,  with  a window  at  one 
end.  Make  shelves  on  one  side,  and  place  suitable  clothes  hooks  on 
the  other.  In  such  a room  the  entire  wardrobe  and  family  linen  can 
be  properly  stored.  If  you  desire  a moth-proof  room,  the  ceiling, 
walls  and  shelves  should  be  made  of  red  cedar.  We  suggest  this 
clothes  room  because  of  its  cheapness.  Each  bedroom  of  large  houses 
should  be  provided  with  a clothes  closet,  which  should  be  lined  with 
red  cedar  for  the  reasons  above  stated. 

Don’t  forget  to  have  windows  and  all  outside  doors  fitted  up 
with  light  sash  and  frames  covered,  with  woven  wire  cloth.  This 
material  is  very  cheap,  and  can  be  purchased  at  any  house-furnishing 
goods  store.  Its  use  prevents  mosquitoes  and  flies  from  entering  the 
house.  Freedom  from  these  summer  pests  will  amply  repay  you  for 
the  expense.  During  the  late  fall,  winter  and  spring  months,  the 
sash  and  frames  can  be  removed;  they  should  be  stored  in  some  per- 
fectly dry  place,  such  as  a garret,  never  in  a cellar.  Speaking  of 
pests  reminds  us  of  another  kind  that  breed  in  cracks  and  crevices 
found  in  most  kitchens,  which  might  lead  a thoughtful  man  to  sup- 
pose that  the  builder,  in  his  kindness  of  heart,  provided  these  little 
hiding  places  for  just  such  creatures.  If  you  don’t  want  them,  see 
that  there  are  no  cracks  left  between  the  wood-work  and  plastering, 
or  in  any  part  of  the  floor  or  walls  of  the  kitchen.  Fill  with  cement 
(Plaster  of  Paris  is  good)  all  cracks  caused  by  shrinkage  of  wood- 
work after  the  walls  are  completed  and  are  thoroughly  dry. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


35 


SHEET  METAL  WORK  FOR  PUBLIC  AND 
PRIVATE  BUILDINGS. 


GUTTERS,  VALLEYS  AND  DOWN  PIPES. 


These  things  are  very  closely  related  to  the  roof,  and  like  it 
should  be  of  the  best  material. 

A tin  gutter  hung  at  the  eaves  has  the  advantage  of  being  cheap; 
if  made  of  good  material  and  put  up  with  good  fastenings  is  durable, 
and  suitable  for  cheap  houses  and  some  portions  of  expensive  ones. 

In  all  cases  where  the  fastenings  are  to  hang  from  the  roof,  the 
gutter  should  be  put  up  before  the  roof  covering  is  put  on,  so  the 
fastenings  can  be  secured  to  the  roof  boards  instead  of  on  top  of  the 
tin,  slate  or  wood  shingles.  If  the  fastenings  are  nailed  on  top  of  the 
roof  covering,  the  nails  soon  become  loose,  and  the  gutter  sags.  The 
tinsmith  will  charge  no  more  for  doing  his  work  before  the  roofers 
commence,  but  it  may  delay  you  a day.  Paint  the  gutter  inside  as  well 
as  out,  and  see  that  it  has  sufficient  fall  to  clear  itself  of  water.  If  you 
prefer  the  gutter  on  the  roof  near  the  eaves,  let  the  sheets  of  which  it 
is  made  be  of  sufficient  width  to  extend  far  enough  up  under  the 
roof  covering  to  prevent  water  (when  the  gutter  is  full)  from  over- 
flowing at  the  back  instead  of  over  at  the  front;  this  is  a common 
error.  In  every  instance  let  this  top  gutter  be  outside  the  wall  line, 
so  in  case  of  leakage  the  “ drip  ” is  outside  the  walls.  Gutters  of 
this  kind,  and  all  gutters  that  are  soldered  and  firmly  fastened  to  roof 
boards  (not  hanging  gutters),  are  liable  to  crack  by  expansion  and 
contraction  of  the  metal;  we  therefore  say,  never  put  a gutter  inside 
the  wall  lines  if  they  can  be  put  outside.  Valleys  formed  by  the 
joining  of  two  roofs  at  an  angle  are  usually  steep  enough  to  allow 


86 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


the  metal  sheets  to  lap  on  each  other  and  shed  water  without  solder- 
ing. Such  sheets  are  usually  made  twenty-eight  inches  long.  Their 
shortness  prevents  cracking  from  expansion  and  contraction  even  if 
nailed  to  roof  boards.  Remember  that  all  trash  or  dirt  that  settles 
on  the  roof  eventually  finds  its  way  into  the  valleys,  gutters  and 
down  pipes,  and  in  a manner  scours  their  surface;  for  this  rea- 
son they  receive  several  fold  more  wear  than  the  same  amount  of 
exposed  surface  of  the  roof,  consequently,  should  be  of  better 
material.  Few  people  are  aware  of  the  amount  of  dirt  and  sand 
which  is  carried  by  the  wind  and  deposited  on  their  house-tops;  for 
this  reason,  if  the  water  is  used  for  drinking  or  cooking  purposes,  the 
first  water  that  flows  from  the  roof  during  a rain  storm  should  not  be 
allowed  to  flow  into  the  cistern. 

It  is  always  best  to  have  good  sized  down  pipes.  As  a rule,  for 
down  pipes  from  hanging  gutters,  let  the  circumference  of  the  pipe 
equal  the  girt  of  the  gutter,  and  the  gutter  should  be  large  enough 
to  convey  the  water  which  falls  on  the  roof  during  the  heaviest 
storms.  Use  only  curved  elbows  where  a turn  in  the  pipe  is  to  be 
made,  and  at  the  foot  or  discharge  end.  Curved  elbows  are  now  made 
by  machinery;  they  are  stronger,  more  durable  and  cost  no  more 
than  the  common  hand-made  acute  kind. 

We. have  spoken  of  good  material;  but  what  is  good  material 
when  Tin  Plate  is  spoken  of?  The  quality  of  Tin  Plate  depends  on 
its  toughness,  and  the  weight  of  Tin  or  Terne  coating  on  its  surface. 
The  first  is  easily  determined  by  bending  back  and  forth  with  the 
hand,  the  latter  is  not,  unless  handled  by  an  expert.  The  following 
test  will  determine  the  difference,  provided  you  have  different  quali- 
ties. If  the  qualities  are  the  same,  or  nearly  so,  the  difference  will 
not  be  distinguishable. 

Take  two  pieces  of  different  quality  of  Tin  or  Terne  plates,  say 
two  inches  square,  grease  one  side  with  any  kind  of  animal  fat;  then 
with  a pair  of  plyers,  hold  them  separately  over  a gas  or  candle  jet 
with  one  corner  obliquely  downward,  and  the  amount  of  fusible 
metal  which  flows  from  them  will  determine  the  difference  between 
good  and  common. 


Practical  hints  to  builders. 


TESTIMONIALS. 


St.  Louis,  Mo.,  April  26th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — We  have  used  your  Walter’s  Metal  Shingles  on  the  most 
prominent  buildings  of  our  city,  all  of  which  have  given  universal  satisfaction 
both  in  appearance  and  durability.  As  for  us,  we  can  say  we  give  them  the 
preference  above  all  others  knowing  that  when  once  up  there  is  none  its  equal. 

Yours  truly,  MESKER  BROS. 


Augusta,  Ga.,  April  30th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — I have  in  the  past  six  years  used  and  carefully  compared  all 
the  leading  makes  of  Patent  Metallic  Shingles,  and  I unhesitatingly  pronounce 
your  Walter’s  Patent  the  best  shingle  on  the  market.  They  are  simple,  and 
easy  to  put  on,  and  for  a handsome,  light  and  durable  roof  they  are  without 
a parallel.  I have  used  them  on  many  public  as  well  as  private  buildings  in 
this  city,  and  they  have  in  all  instances  given  the  highest  possible  satisfaction, 
which  has  won  me  the  esteem  and  confidence  of  the  public. 

Yours  truly,  DAVID  SLUSKY. 


Las  Vegas  College,  Las  Vegas,  N.  M.,  April  29th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — I am  glad  to  inform  you  that  we  are  very  well  satisfied  with 
the  Walter’s  Metal  Shingles  with  which  the  new  stone  addition  of  our  college 
is  covered.  It  is  about  three  years  since  the  roof  was  laid,  and  your  shingles 
are  keeping  yet  a very  neat  and  nice  appearance,  defying  bravely  the  eating 
and  inclemency  of  the  weather.  Yours  truly, 

C.  M.  CAPILUPI,  5.  /. 


Office  of  Superintendent,  DePaw  University, 

Green  Castle,  Ind.,  April  30th,  1888. 
Gentlemen: — We  beg  to  say  that  your  Walter’s  Shingles  with  which  our 
college  buildings  are  covered  are  very  satisfactory. 

E.  T.  CHAFFEE,  Sup’t. 


Colorado  State  Insane  Asylum, 

Pueblo,  Col.,  April  27th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — I wish  to  say  that  the  Walter’s  Patent  Metallic  Shingles, 
with  which  our  buildings  are  covered,  we  believe  to  be  superior  to  anything 
heretofore  introduced  in  the  West  in  that  line. 

Yours  truly, 


P.  R.  THOMBS,  Sup’t. 


SS 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


Daytona,  Fla.,  April  27th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — We  have  used  your  Metallic  Shingles  on  the  First  Congre- 
gational Church  at  this  place.  As  to  durability,  the  roof  has  been  on  now 
about  three  years,  and  seems  as  good  as  the  day  it  was  put  on.  Its  appear- 
ance is  beautiful,  and  its  rain  shedding  qualities  are  perfect.  We  like  the 
roof  first  rate,  and  can  conscientiously  recommend  them  to  others. 

Yours  very  truly,  CHAS.  M.  BINGHAM,  Pastor. 


Ithaca,  N.  Y.,  April  28th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — We  have  put  the  Walter’s  Metallic  Shingles  upon  many 
buildings  in  Ithaca,  and  in  each  instance  our  customers  have  been  perfectly 
satisfied.  In  our  opinion  they  are  the  most  durable  roof  we  have  handled. 
The  writer  has  his  house  covered  with  the  Galvanized  Tin  Shingles,  and 
believes  he  has  the  most  durable  roof  in  Ithaca,  because  they  need  no 
painting,  or  care  of  any  kind  whatever.  While  costing  more  at  the  start,  in 
the  end  the  matter  of  economy  is  with  the  Walter’s  Shingles. 

Yours  truly,  C.  J.  RUMSEY  & CO. 


Taunton,  Mass.,  April  25th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — We  have  used  in  le^  than  two  years  about  800  squares  of 
your  Metallic  Shingles,  and  they  have  given  the  best  of  satisfaction  in  every 
case,  and  in  our  opinion  are  far  ahead  in  durability  and  appearance  of  either 
slate  or  wooden  shingles.  Yours  truly, 

N.  CRAPO  & BRO. 


Winthrop  St.  Baptist  Church, 

Taunton,  Mass,  May  5th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — We  are  in  every  way  fully  satisfied  with  the  Walter’s  Metal 
Shingles  which  you  put  on  the  roof  of  our  church  two  years  ago.  It  would 
be  difficult  to  desire  a superior  roofing.  Yours  very  truly, 

J.  K.  WILSON,  Pastor. 


Centenarian  M.  E.  Church, 

Beatrice,  Neb.,  May  2d,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — I consider  the  Walter's  Metal  Shingle  an  improvement  over 
anything  of  the  past;  superior  to  slate  in  appearance;  of  less  weight  and  cost, 
and  just  as  durable.  When  properly  put  in  place  it  can  but  give  the  best  of 
satisfaction.  Can  heartily  recommend  it.  Respectfully, 

A.  C.  CALKINS,  Pastor. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


Sg 


Matteawan,  N.  Y.,  April  25th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — I take  great  pleasure  in  giving  my  unprejudiced  opinion  of 
Walter’s  Metallic  Shingles.  I have  been  using  them  for  the  last  three  years, 
and  have  never  had  any  fault  found  with  them  of  all  the  roofs  that  I have  put 
on,  and  I have  had  good  practical  tinners  proclaim  to  me  that  they  consider 
it  the  best  tin  roofing  they  have  ever  seen.  It  is  the  roof  for  me  when  I am 
building  myself.  Any  person  adopting  this  roof,  by  giving  it  a coat  of 
metallic  paint  every  five  years,  I will  warrant  them  to  have  a tight  roof  for 
two  generations.  Yours  truly, 

SAM’L  McKEE. 


Minneapolis,  Minn.,  April  27th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — I have  put  on  in  the  Northwest  large  amounts  of  your 
Metallic  Shingles  for  others,  and  also  covered  my  own  residence  some  five 
years  ago,  and  can  heartily  recommend  your  goods  to  any  one  desiring  a sub- 
stantial and  absolutely  tight  roof  of  fine  appearance,  which  gives  a roof  much 
better  than  slate  and  a lower  price.  Most  respectfully  yours, 

M.  H.  CRITTENDEN. 


Ann  Arbor,  Mich.,  May  4th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — My  roof  was  the  first  one  in  this  city  on  which  your  tin 
shingles  were  used,  and  they  have  gi^en  entire  satisfaction.  I would  not 
exchange  it  for  any  other  roof  that  I know  of.  Yours  truly, 

GEO.  W.  MOORE. 


Milford,  Delaware,  May  10th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — Would  say  that  the  Walter’s  Patent  Metallic  Shingles,  put 
on  the  Electric  Light  Station  in  this  town,  by  W.  P.  Cullen,  are  giving  entire 
satisfaction,  making  a handsome  and  durable  roof,  much  preferable  in  our 
judgment  to  the  regular  tin  roofs  usually  put  on  such  buildings. 

Very  truly  yours,  W.  T.  JOHNSON. 


New  Milford,  Del.,  May  15th,  1888. 

Perhaps  it  may  be  of  interest  to  you  to  know  my  views  of  the  Tin  Shingle 
Roofing  purchased  of  W.  P.  Cullen,  of  Milford,  Del.  I can  recommend  in 
the  highest  degree  their  use,  as  they  possess  many  advantages  over  any  other 
material  used  for  that  purpose.  They  require  no  skilled  labor,  and  are  as 
durable  as  any  tin  roof  can  possibly  be.  I have  watched  it  during  every  rain- 
storm since  it  was  laid,  and  not  one  drop  has  passed  through  it  to  my  gratifi- 
cation, and  to  the  credit  of  the  inventor.  I invite  the  inspection  of  any  one 
who  may  contemplate  putting  on  a roof  upon  any  building. 

Respectfully,  P.  H.  STORM, 


§6 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


Brockton,  Mass.,  April  27th,  i883. 

Gentlemen: — Two  years  ago  the  Brockton  Agricultural  Society  covered 
the  roof  of  their  main  building  with  your  tin  shingles,  and  I am  pleased  to 
inform  you  that  they  have  given  perfect  satisfaction. 

Yours  truly,  H.  W.  ROBINSON,  President. 


Church  of  the  Holy  Apostles, 

St.  Clair,  Pa.,  April  25th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — The  Walter’s  Patent  Metallic  Shingles  have  been  the  covering 
to  the  Rectory  of  this  church  since  September,  1885.  They  were  put  on  by 
novices  under  disadvantageous  circumstances,  and  have  withstood  every  test 
that  a Pennsylvania  mountainous  district  changeable  weather  could  give.  I 
talk  tin  shingles  to  all  my  friends.  Yours  truly, 

CHAS.  A.  MARKS,  Rector. 


Natchez,  Miss.,  February  16th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — I have  been  in  the  tin  roofing  business  for  the  past  20  years, 
and  I believe  that  the  Walter’s  Patent  Tin  Shingles  make  the  best  tin  roofing 
of  any  of  the  other  patents  that  are  now  on  the  market.  I have  put  on  hund- 
reds of  squares  of  them,  and  they  have  given  me  and  the  property  owners 
entire  satisfaction.  I will  further  say  that  each  box  of  shingles  I have  bought 
from  them  has  covered  one  hundred  square  teetof  roof,  which  will  be  under- 
stood by  tinners  to  be  a great  satisfaction  in  ordering  roofing,  as  the  rule  is 
that  patent  roofing  falls  short  after  being  laid.  I have  often  been  asked  by 
different  manufacturing  companies  for  my  opinion  of  the  roofing  that  they 
manufacture,  but  this  is  the  first  time  that  I have  ever  given  my  opinion,  and 
I would  not  give  my  opinion  now  if  the  Walter’s  Patent  Tin  Shingles  did 
not  deserve  it.  I am,  yours  truly,  P.  W.  MULVIHILL. 


Baton  Rouge,  La.,  February  24th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — I beg  to  say  that  I have  used  the  Walter's  Patent  Tin  Shin- 
gles for  some  time,  and  they  have  given  satisfaction.  I think  they  make  the 
best  roofing  that  can  be  put  on  for  the  money.  Yours  truly, 

M.  J.  WILLIAMS. 


Milford,  Del.,  May  4th,  1888. 

Dear  Sirs: — This  is  to  say  that  I have  used  several  thousand  shingles  of 
Walter’s  Patent  on  our  roof  at  the  Phosphate  Factory,  put  on  by  W.  P.  Cullen, 
and  up  to  this  time  not  a single  drop  of  water  or  a weight  of  snow  has  drifted 
through  it,  and  if  kept  properly  painted,  I believe  the  roof  will  last  as  long 
as  any  person  could  wish  it  to. 


W.  I.  SIMPSON. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


QI 


Canajoharie,  N.  Y.,  May  10th,  1888. 

Gentlemen: — Having  Walter's  Metal  Shingles  on  two  of  my  buildings, 
put  on  by  F.  H.  Hodge,  the  new  Courier  building  being  sided  with  them,  I 
feel  that  I am  competent  to  speak  of  the  merits  of  the  shingles.  My  experi- 
ence has  been  entirely  satisfactory,  and  I regard  the  Metallic  Shingles  as  the 
best  roofing  and  siding  extant.  If  I were  to  build  a hundred  houses,  and  it 
were  possible  to  use  these  shingles,  I would  not  hesitate  one  moment,  as  I 
regard  them  as  cheaper  and  better  than  any  other  covering  in  the  market. 

Yours,  &c.,  WILLET  F.  COOK. 


Hospital  for  the  Insane  in  Washington  Territory, 

Fort  Steilacoom,  W.  T.,  May  2d,  1888. 

Dear  Sirs: — This  institution  has  passed  two  winters  under  cover  of  Wal- 
ter’s Metal  Shingles.  Our  Winters  are  very  wet,  rain  falling  most  of  the 
time,  but  there  has  been  no  leak.  The  shingles  are,  therefore,  entirely  satis- 
factory- Yours  very  truly,  JOHN  W.  WAUGHOP,  M.  D. 

Sup’t  Hospital  Insane,  W.  T. 


Woodstock  College,  Howard  Co.,  Md.,  December  8th,  1886. 

Gentlemen: — It  affords  me  much  pleasure  to  indorse  favorably  the  Walter’s 
Patent  Metallic  Shingles.  I have  used  them  on  our  church  buildings  in  Trini- 
dad, Colo.,  Albuquerque,  N.  M.,  and  Woodstock,  Md.  In  the  first  named 
place  they  have  been  in  use  over  two  years,  and  have  withstood,  without  detri- 
ment, the  very  high  winds  and  occasional  driving  storms  of  rain  and  snow  for 
which  that  State  is  so  remarkable.  In  the  other  places  they  are  also  giving  satis- 
faction in  every  respect. 

I consider  a roof  of  this  material  far  superior  to  the  ordinary  tin  or  iron, 
both  in  beauty  of  design  and  solidity  of  construction,  and  see  no  reason  why  it 
should  not  supersede  slate,  as  it  is  far  less  costly,  requires  a lighter  frame,  is 
just  as  much  fire  or  storm-proof,  and  equally  durable  if  kept  painted. 

Hoping  your  goods  may  elicit  the  patronage  they  justly  deserve,  I beg  to 
remain,  gentlemen,  Yours  very  truly, 

EDWARD  BARRY,  S.  J. 


Auburn,  N.  Y.,  November  26th,  1889. 

Gentlemen: — Your  esteemed  favor  of  the  16th  duly  to  hand;  by  reason  of 
Mr.  Stevens'  absence  from  town,  has  not  had  earlier  reply.  We  take  great 
pleasure  in  speaking  a good  word  for  the  new  roofing  we  purchased  of  your 
house;  we  find  it  all  it  was  recommended  to  be.  The  condition  in  which  it  came 
to  us  rendered  it  very  easy  to  place  upon  the  roof.  It  makes  a tight  and  sub- 
stantial roof,  one  which  we  believe  will  be  as  durable  as  anything  we  have  ever 
seen.  We  remain,  with  respect, 

Yours  very  truly,  A.  W.  STEVENS  & SON. 


92 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


Penfield  Center,  N.  Y.,  October  17th,  1889. 
Gentlemen: — I have  used  about  sixty  squares  of  your  metal  shingles  this 
year,  and  can  say  they  excel  any  roof  I have  used.  They  are  light,  tight  and 
cannot  help  being  a life-lasting  roof,  if  they  are  taken  care  of. 

Yours  truly,  G.  H.  BACON. 


Sherman,  Texas,  October  28th,  1889. 
Gentlemen: — I have  been  contracting  and  building  fifty  years,  34  years  in 
North  Texas.  I recommend  your  metal  roofing  as  the  best  I have  ever  used, 
and  that  it  gives  perfect  satisfaction,  and  if  painted  every  five  years  it  will  last 
a century.  Yours  truly,  GEO.  MELTON, 

Architect  and  Builder. 


College  of  the  Holy  Cross, 

Mr.  W.  F.  Wallace,  Worcester,  Mass. 

Sec’y  and  Treas’r,  Nat.  Sheet  Metal  Roofing  Co. 

Dear  Sir: — Having  used  your  Galvanized  Tin  Shingles  largely  in  Maryland, 
Connecticut  and  here,  and  recommended  their  use  in  other  sections,  I have  no 
hesitation  in  stating  that  everywhere  the  results  have  been  completely  satisfac- 
tory. I shall  continue  to  use  the  roofing  in  preference  to  any  that  I know. 

Yours  respectfully,  T.  W.  HAYES,  5.  J. 


Rome,  N.  Y.,  November  4th,  1889. 

Dear  Sirs: — Nearly  two  years  ago  I had  the  steeples  of  my  church  covered 
with  your  Galvanized  Metal  Shingles.  I have  now  no  hesitation  in  stating  that 
in  my  judgment  it  is  the  best  roofing  material  in  the  market.  It  is  very  orna- 
mental, and  time  seems  to  have  no  effect  on  it,  as  it  still  retains  the  same  color. 
So  pleased  were  the  citizens  of  this  place  with  the  work  done  on  my  church, 
that  many  of  them  are  now  using  the  same  material  in  roofing  their  houses. 

A.  MURPHY,  Pastor. 


Webster,  N.  Y.,  October  17th,  1889. 

Gentlemen: — I have  used  your  patent  shingles  on  my  grist  mill  and  think 
there  is  nothing  better  for  fire,  wind  or  weather.  They  are  all  right. 

Yours  truly,  B.  SPERRY. 


Rome,  N.  Y.,  December  2d,  1889. 

Gentlemen: — The  Walter's  Metallic  Shingles  put  on  the  roof  of  our  new 
church  in  this  city,  about  four  months  ago,  by  Mr.  James  Conley,  are  in  every 
way  satisfactory  to  our  people,  and  the  roof  is  admired  by  all  who  see  it.  I take 
great  pleasure  in  recommending  your  shingles  to  the  public  as  the  best  material 
for  roofing  that  I have  seen.  E.  W.  BRUCE 

Pastor  and  Chairman  of  Building  Com. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


93 


Rome,  N.  Y.,  November  5th,  1889. 

Gentlemen: — We  have  used  your  Metallic  Shingles  on  the  steeples  of  the 
Welsh  Congregational  Church,  at  this  place,  last  summer,  and  it  seems  as  good 
as  the  day  it  was  put  on.  Its  appearance  is  beautiful  and  its  rain-shedding 
qualities  are  perfect.  We  like  the  steeple  first  rate  and  can  conscientiously 
recommend  them  to  others.  They  need  no  painting  or  care  of  any  kind  what- 
ever. These  were  put  on  by  Mr.  James  Conley,  of  Rome,  N.  Y. 

Yours  truly, 

James  Thomas,  Sec’y.  D.  E.  PRICHARD,  Pastor. 


Rome,  N.  Y.,  December  6th,  1889. 

Gentlemen: — The  Walter’s  Metallic  Shingles  were  first  brought  to  my  notice 
by  Mr.  James  Conley,  of  this  city,  some  two  years  ago,  and  I made  a personal 
examination  and  test  of  same,  and  have  since  specified  and  had  them  used  in 
preference  on  several  buildings.  They  make  a light,  handsome  and  durable 
roof,  and  I have  yet  to  hear  the  first  complaint. 

Respectfully,  WM.  H.  DAVIES,  Architect. 


Council  Grove,  Kansas,  November  5th,  1889. 
Messrs.  Jerome  Twichell  & Co.,  Kansas  City,  Mo. 

Gents: — Yours  of  the  25th  at  hand  regarding  the  Walter’s  Shingles.  I pur- 
chased in  the  spring  the  Waiter’s  Shingles  and  used  them  on  my  dwelling  house. 
I must  say  they  make  the  best  looking  roof  and  the  tightest  roof  I ever  saw,  and 
they  are  easily  laid.  I am  much  pleased  with  them  and  can  recommend  them 
very  highly.  Yours  truly,  THOS.  J.  HIGGINS, 

Breeder  of  Hereford  Cattle. 


Junction  City,  Kansas,  October  29th,  1889. 
Messrs.  Jerome  Twichell  & Co.,  Kansas  City,  Mo. 

Gentlemen: — Replying  to  yours,  25th  inst.,  we  have  used  the  Walter’s 
Metallic  Shingles  on  the  large  three-story  building  we  occupy.  This  roof  was 
put  on  nearly  two  years  ago;  the  roof  has  not  shown  any  defects  up  to  this  time, 
and  if  kept  properly  painted  will  last  many  years. 

Very  respectfully  yours,  ZIEGLER  HARDWARE  CO. 


Kansas  City,  October  26th,  1889. 
Messrs.  Jerome  Twichell  & Co.,  Kansas  City,  Mo. 

Dear  Sirs: — In  reply  to  yours  I have  no  hesitation  in  pronouncing  the 
Walter’s  Metallic  Shingles  a good  roof.  It  has  been  on  my  two-story  frame 
house  two  years,  and  I have  found  it  to  be  perfectly  tight,  keeps  clean  (an  ad- 
vantage where  cistern  water  is  used)  and  adds  greatly  to  the  appearance  of  the 
house-  Yours  truly,  M.  J.  REILLY, 

1308  Park  Avenue. 


94 


Practical  hints  to  builders. 


Weston,  Mo.,  October  31st,  1889. 
Messrs.  Jerome  Twichell  & Co.,  Kansas  City;  Mo. 

Gentlemen: — Walter’s  Metallic  Shingles  bought  of  you  last  May  were  put 
on  our  school-house,  and  I am  glad  to  state  that  they  make  a tight,  handsome 
and  substantial  roof.  Everybody  is  pleased  with  it.  I can  recommend  them  to 
all  who  want  a tight  and  substantial  roof.  Yours  truly, 

Rev.  CHAS.  SCHAAF, 
Pastor  of  Catholic  Church. 


Hutchinson,  Kansas,  October  26th,  1889. 
Messrs.  Jerome  Twichell  & Co.,  Kansas  City,  Mo. 

Gents: — We  have  used  almost  all  kinds  of  Metallic  Shingles  manufactured, 
but  find  the  Walter's  Shingle  makes  the  best  roof  of  any  we  have  found.  They 
make  a tight,  ornamental  and  durable  roof,  and  have  never  given  us  a particle 
of  trouble,  and  we  are  glad  to  recommend  them  to  any  one  wanting  a first-class 
metallic  roof.  Respectfully,  SWIFT,  MANKOFF  & CONGDON. 


Trinidad,  Colo.,  November  16th,  1889. 
Messrs.  Jerome  Twichell  & Co.,  Kansas  City,  Mo. 

Dear  Sirs: — We  have  used  the  Walter’s  Patent  Shingles  to  the  satisfaction 
of  all  concerned  on  the  following  buildings:  Southern  Hotel,  South  Side  Public 
School,  Jewish  Synagogue  and  several  minor  buildings.  They  undoubtedly 
make  a good  roof.  Yours  truly,  SCHMIDT  BROS. 


Mr.  James  Conley, 

Agent,  Walter’s  Patent  Tin  Shingles,  Rome,  N.  Y. 

Dear  Sir: — I take  pleasure  in  commending  the  Walter's  Tin  Shingles,  as 
applied  to  my  house  by  you.  As  you  will  remember,  the  roof  was  .not  com- 
pleted in  all  its  details  when  the  winter  set  in  last  year,  and,  at  my  request,  the 
scaffolding  was  left  on  the  different  roofs,  more  for  a test  from  banking  of  snow 
and  back-water,  feeling  assured  that  if  the  shingles  survived  the  test,  I would 
never  experience  any  trouble  from  that  source,  in  the  future,  when  the  scaffold- 
ing was  removed.  I was  more  than  satisfied  with  the  test,  as  we  experienced 
no  trouble  from  leakage  or  from  any  other  source.  Therefore,  I take  great 
pleasure  in  recommending  the  Walter’s  Patent  Tin  Shingles  to  whoever  con- 
templates using  a metallic  shingle  for  their  buildings. 

I remain,  yours  truly,  CHAS.  WIGHAM, 

House,  41S  Floyd  Ave.,  Rome,  N.Y. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


95 


OUR  SPECIALTIES. 

THE  BEST  OF  THEIR  KIND. 


METAL  SHINGLES,  under  the  Walter’s  and  Cooper’s  Patents,  made 
from  Tin  Plates,  Tin  Plate  Galvanized,  Steel  Plates  and  Copper,  have 
no  equal  in  the  world  for  roof  covering. 

CURVED  ELBOWS.  — Fixed,  adjustable  and  in  sections.  The  most 
perfect  machine-made  Elbow  ever  invented.  Made  from  Tin  Plate,  Tin 
Plate  Re-tinned,  and  Tin  Plate  Galvanized.  Perfect  in  form  and  fitting. 
The  best  in  the  world. 

CONDUCTOR  PIPE. — Crimp  expanding.  Will  not  burst  by  freezing. 
In  sections  twenty-eight  inches  long,  which  interlock  with  each  other. 
Two  sizes,  three  and  four  inches  diameter. 

WIRE  NAILS.  — Made  from  Steel  Wire.  All  sizes,  both  barbed  and  plain, 
in  kegs,  at  manufacturers’  prices. 

DRY  PAINT.  (Devils’  Red.) — The  very  best  Oxide  of  Iron. 

This  is  NOT  a Ready-Mixed  Paint.  It  is  Iron  Ore,  burnt  until  all 
deleterious  substances  are  destroyed,  then  pulverized  and  bolted.  In 
a word  it  is  IRON  RUST,  it 

MIXES  readily  with  Linseed  Oil, 

FLOWS  freely  under  the  brush, 

ADHERES  tenaciously  wherever  applied. 

Samples  Mailed  Free. 


Write  for  Illustrated  Catalogue  and  Prices. 

THE  NATIONAL  SHEET  METAL  ROOFING  COMPANY, 

510  to  520  East  Twentieth  Street, 

NEW  YORK  CITY, 


96 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


STEEL  WIRE  NAILS 

AT  MANUFACTURERS’  PRICES. 


All  Kinds  of  Wire  Nails,  Plain  or  Barbed, 

FOR 

Tin  and  Iron  Roofing,  Tin  and  Wooden  Shingles,  Slate  and 
Composition  Roofing,  Carpenters  and  Box  Makers,  Trunk 
and  Casket  Makers,  Builders  and  Contractors. 

THE  NATIONAL  SHEET  METAL  ROOFING  CO. 

<;io  to  520  East  20m  Street,  New  York  City, 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


97 


FRANK  L.  SMITH, 

eArcftifecf, 

22  SCHOOL  STREET , (Room  roj  - - BOSTON,  MASS. 


Plans  for  Specifications  Prepared  for  Buildings  of  every  description. 

Low  Cost  Suburban  Dwellings  a Specialty. 

Distance  is  no  obstacle  to  my  serving  parties  in  all  parts  of  the  country. 
Correspondence  Solicited. 


PUBLISHER  OF 

A COSY  HOME:  How  It  was  Built. 

A DISCUSSION  OF  THE  VARIOUS  METHODS  AND  MATERIALS 
EMPLOYED  IN  ITS  CONSTRUCTION. 

The  book  contains  ninety-six  pages,  and  is  handsomely  printed  on  heavy, 
tinted  paper.  Is  illustrated  by  designs  of  ten  low-cost  houses;  first  and  sec- 
ond floor  plans  and  front  and  side  elevations  of  each  design  are  presented. 

It  contains  many  valuable  and  practical  suggestions  for  those  who  would 
build  "economically,  and  who  desire  to  obtain  the  greatest  value  for  their  money. 
Most  of  the  houses  represented  have  been  recently  built  in  the  vicinity  of  Bos- 
ton, and  the  estimated  cost  of  executing  each  design  is  based  upon  actual  figures. 

If  you  are  interested  in  house  planning  and  building,  it  will  pay  you  to 
send  for  this  book.  Sent  post-paid,  on  receipt  of  price,  25c. 


HOMES  OF  TO-DAY, 

OR, 

Modern  Examples  of  Moderate'Cost  Houses. 

Published  in  four  parts,  quarterly.  First  and  second  parts  now  ready. 
Volume  will  contain  240  pages,  quarto  size,  showing  designs  of  buildings  to 
cost  from  $250  upwards.  Over  200  illustrations,  full  set  of  framing  plans, 
model  specification,  colored  frontispiece,  and  valuable  information  for  those 
about  to  build.  Four  parts,  post-paid,  as  issued,  $1.00.  Address, 

F.  L.  SMITH,  Architect,  22  School  St.,  Boston,  Mass, 


For  Extra  Roofing  specify  EILLEY  EXTRA  or  LPL  EXTRA. 

Each  Sheet  stamped  with  Brand. 


98 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS, 


CORRUGATED  LEADERS.  IXL  VENTILATORS, 
# 

iEight  Foot  Seamless  Eave  Troughs  and  Gutters, 


For  Best  Roofing  specify  TREG01TI1TG  OLD  PROCESS. 

Each  Sheet  stamped  with  Brand. 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUlLDEfeS. 


JMo.  1 Neponset  Rope  Roofing. 

For  a first-class  covering  use  our  No.  i and  No.  2 Neponset 
Rope  Roofing.  This  will  make  a permanent  covering  at  a low  cost. 


Black  Neponset  Building. 

This  is  without  exception  the  best  building  paper  in  the  market. 
Cheaper  and  better  than  tarred  paper.  Will  save  fuel. 


For  Sale  by  all  Dealers. 


Manufactured  solely  by 

F.  W.  BIRD  & SON,  East  Walpole,  Mass. 


IOO 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  TO  BUILDERS. 


STEAM  AND  WARM  AIR  COMBINED 


THE 


ECONOMY 


COMBINATION 

Steam  and  Warm  Air  Heater. 


A Low  Pressure  Apparatus.  Radiates  Steam  Heat 
with  from  J4  to  3 pounds  pressure.  One  fire  generates 
both  Warm  Air  and  Steam,  increasing  its  capacity  25  per 
cent,  over  any  All-Steam  Heater  made.  The  drafts  are 
automatically  regulated  by  the  steam  pressure. 

Our  Sysytems  of  Warming  Buildings  icith  Steam  Radi- 
ation and  Warm  Air  insure 

Perfect  Ventilation, 


And  guarantee  a uniform  and  healthful  temperature  throughout  the  house. 


THE  “ECONOMY” 


Warm-Air  Furnaces 

Have  a reputation  that  is  neither  excelled  nor 
equalled  for  Durability,  Power  and 
Economy,  and  are  guaranteed  in  every  respect. 


SEND  FOR  CATALOGUE 

giving  full  particulars,  descriptions  and  illustrations 
of  31  different  styles  and  sizes  of  Heaters. 

Manufactured  solely  hy  the 

J.  F.  PEASE  FURNACE  CO. 

Syracuse,  N.  Y.,  Toronto,  Ont., 

75  Union  Street,  Boston, 

177  East  Randolph  Street,  Chicago. 


EARL  B.  CHACE  A CO. 

General  N.  Y.  Managers, 

206  Water  St.,  New  York . 


Estimates  for  Warming  Buildings  Promptly  Furnished. 


The  Double  Radiator  Economy 
Warm-Air  Furnace. 


PM ! PAINT !!  PM !!! 


HOUSE-TOPS, 
BARNS,  and 
OUTHOUSES, 

Paint ! Paint !!  Paint !!! 

WITH 

DEVILS'  RED 

THE  BEST  OXIDE  OF  IRON, 

GROUND  to  an  Impalpable  Powder 
READY  to  mix  with  Linseed  Oil 
WITHOUT  any  other  ingredient. 


If  you  want  the  very  best  results  from  OXIDE  OF  IRON,  mix 
only  with  Linseed  Oil. 

If  you  want  a cheap,  vile  compound  often  sold  for  Paint,  mix  Oxide  of 
Iron,  Benzine,  and  a “leetle”  Oil. 


DEVILS’  RED 

stroyed,  then  pulverized  and  bolted. 


IS  NOT  a Ready-Mixed  Paint.  It  is  Iron  Ore 
burnt  until  all  deleterious  substances  are  de- 


In  a word  it  is  Iron  Rust,  it  MIXES  readily  with  Linseed  Oil, 

FLOWS  freely  under  the  brush, 
ADHERES  tenaciously  wherever  applied. 


DEVILS’  RED  is  For  Sale  to  the  Trade, 

ONLY  BY 

THE  NATIONAL  SHEET  METAL  ROOFING  CO. 

510  to  520  East  20th  Street,  Hew  York  Oity, 

In  Packages  of  25  lbs.,  60c.;  50  lbs.,  $1.00;  100  lbs.,  $1.75. 


Special  Prices  by  the  Barrel. 


Samples  Mailed  Free. 


